Tuesday 31 July 2007

Chapters 15-17

While I'm at it, here's a few more, if you're really looking for summer reading.

Chapter 15
Field Sources : the Condor and the Fox

The roadshow hits Laikapampa today, a community close to the highway, not really isolated, merely desolate. The ancient mud church is shut tight, windows boarded over, the door padlocked by corroding metal clasps. It’s eroding into a geological feature.
“Any chance of a look inside,” I enquire, supposing that interest will enhance my standing with the locals.
“The church contains colonial paintings of some value to collectors, it would seem,” our guide stiffly explains. “We keep the temple closed so that the paintings cannot be stolen.” He raises both palms high, a gesture that allows me to place him - Don Alejandro, joker and medicine-man who, on that stormy night by the Lake, employed incantations and cane-alcohol to haul the Toyota from its ditch. He changes to what I trust is wit; “Should you enter now, you will be blamed for the theft, whenever it occurs.”
“And if I’m hundreds of kilometers away.”
The twinkle within his squint. “Then we would say that you planned it all the more cunningly.” Subtle needling. Can you picture me hanging their grime-encrusted saints and madonnas on the wall of my beautiful bedroom?
Don Alejandro then points out the effects of a recent, unseasonal frost. We inspect the shrivelled, blackened, ex-foliage of the potato crop. Waist-high heaps of stones border each plot. “A great stone harvest is predicted for this year,” he jokes, kicking one pile
Well into the third week of field-tripping, I’ve found that when in the campo certain factors must be taken into account. The state of the roads, whether blocked by fits of nature (swollen rivers, landslides, ice), or by human interference (amateur banditry, accidents, tolls). Supplies are also vital; food, cigarettes and water for survival during the inevitable delays, and coca to offer, to share. The urban visits are fairly routine, but here on the altiplano, tradition prevails.
“We are pleased and honoured to receive a delegation from the office,” states the old jilakata, fixing us in time and space - tolerated intruders. He’s the police force from colonial times, wears a horn to summon and a whip to chastise. Purely ceremonial, Alberto whispers, shake his hand.
Still I find our welcome among Laikapampans ominous. Nothing is freely given on this scoured plain; not the weavings hung to shield us from the wind and sun, not the bench we sit on while our hosts stand, nor the applause and confetti, nor the crate of beer - not unless we’re being wrapped in bonds of reciprocal obligation.
My colleagues are basking in the attention. Alberto, buddha-chubby and cheerful, responds the speech of welcome. Elvira stacks notebooks on the table to remind the community that she’s checked the accounts. I’m holding a long, thin roll of paper, which, despite Elvira’s disapproval, I twirl, bat, use as a telescope, aim as a blow-pipe to pass the time The rolled sheet is a map of the world.
I’m becoming used to the tensions at every meeting mounting to anger, real or assumed. How the crisis is handled depends on who’s present. Ana assumes an intellectual cloak when under pressure, Oswaldo will manipulate, Edmundo charms, Faustino buys them off. Alberto and Elvira are decent if uninspired.
The Laikas want to build a bridge and a school-house on borrowed cement. Now, because of the frost, they are also requesting an emergency seed-fund. Elvira reminds them of outstanding Copcap loans, including their struggling chicken farm, a poultry excuse of a project. The grumbling swells. Men lean on their bicycles, youths kick stones, the women look away.
Alberto tries explaining, but it’s all quantum physics to his audience, parallel credit lines meeting at infinity, which is where the community may finally settle its debts. He intuits the need for a comedy-break. “Why don’t we continue these discussions later? Our volunteer, Jaime, has prepared a very interesting talk.”
Disregarding the unrest, I unfurl the mapamundi. They can only pummel and castrate me when this misfires.
“Here in the heartland of the continent of South America,” I begin, the public mood prowls between lukewarm and ugly. No-one steps forward to indicate our position on the map, though I do ask. A twig from the bushes over there, please, and I’ll show you where we are. Not possible, someone shouts. OK, I can use the shadow of my finger. But pointing while clutching the map in the breeze is an acrobatic skill.
“And so, Columbus set out for India in search of spices.” The Laika men and women, clustered in separate groups, stare at other horizons. “What he didn’t expect, was a continent in the way, this one. When the ships landed here, the Spaniards thought they’d reached India and called the native inhabitants, indios.” The taboo word just pops out. And hovers. Suddenly one hundred heads swivel my way, two hundred eyes are locked into mine, five hundred years of abuse ride the open plain, caballero.
“Say that again,” is part challenge, part plea. “You mean este carajo arrived in the wrong place?” The crowd has woken up, agile minds peer through the shutters of indifference. They push closer to hear an account quite different from the usual victors’ textbook tale. They know about the discovery/ invention/ invasion of America, empire as looting, oppression lasting till now. But circling round that contemptuous label ‘indio’, what a surprise. Far from disparaging them, it actually marks the ignorance of the invaders.
A tall, known figure disengages from the group. I recognize Mario’s friend, the one who lectured me sober that night. In his brown and black striped poncho, white scarf, black trousers, Rigoberto really looks the condor, in colouring and in posture. He shakes my hand and compliments me, a stepping-stone to addressing the crowd in Aymara. Alberto hisses angrily, “I won’t have this rabble-rouser turn the meeting into a recruitment campaign,” and against all custom, tries to interrupt the speaker. Rigoberto continues haranguing. Out front, many heads bob in assent.
The agenda has irrevocably swung from credit to the outreaches of indignation. Nerves are touched, embers of ’52 flicker - insurrection, peasant militias, the torching the exploiters.
During the pause for rustic buffet, I ask the jilakata about the large adobe building behind us, which in contrast to the padlocked church is open, gapingly so. “Ex-hacienda,” is his terse reply - the landowners’ house.
“Why’s it empty?” I persist.
Alberto, between mouthfuls of potato and beans, translates the ponderous reply. “We prefer never to use those rooms.” Yet, while the place is gutted and shunned, there’s fresh whitewash on the walls and a complete set of red rooftiles.
I haven’t a chance to consider the implications because, straight after the meal, the communards shove me into a football game. From the small pitch jut stones, perfect for kneecapping unwary foreigners. Banana-skin Jim, a hero for our times, skidding, gasping, spewing up his pack-a-day habit, every antic prompting further laughter. My constant sipping of bottled water sets the wags heckling, “Jaime, try the beer; water’s for fish.” Can’t help it if I dehydrate at altitude. The taunts simply reinforce a sweaty resolve until my jeans tear to general amusement and cheers.
The jilakata has granted permission, gravely, to view the hacienda building, but declines to enter. I’m flanked by an escort of medicine-man and agitator. The meeting can continue without me, though later I’ll be called to account for this lapse of teamwork. Right now I’m on a high, buoyant, popular and successful, unaware of the forces ranged around.
Teaching or learning? We enter the hacienda. The empty patio matches the Hackney Academy; both have those echoes of cultured dementia.
“You’ve heard of Melgarejo?”
Rigoberto’s habit of rifling questions.
“A military dictator of the nineteenth century who used a very simple trick to confiscate our lands. Issued a decree that all communities had to register their property within a month.”
“So, why didn’t they register?”
It’s Alejandro, the mystical half of the act, who clarifies my thickness: “How many of us could read in those days?”
And Rigoberto who adds: “Melarejo gifted the entire altiplano to his friemds and turned us into their slaves.”
Room after bare room. In one high-ceilinged salon we find a relic of former times, a dark magazine photo of the Kaiser and family, pasted upside-down on peeling plaster. I try imagining the ladies in crinoline and silk, the gentlemen in dinner-jackets, who waltzed while their serfs crouched in hovels. Fools to imagine they could dine indefinitely off the backs of subsistence farmers.
“Last year in La Paz,” says Alejandro, spitting on the dry earth, “I met the son of the family that owned us. He knew me at once. We used to play together when we were kids. Still looked rich enough. Things don’t change - except now they can’t beat or whip me.”
“Why don’t you knock this damned building down?”
Rigoberto takes my arm and marches me to the low bushes I’d noticed before. A gigantic web unites bush, scrub and weed. Jiggling it, he makes dozens of spiders appear. A spider colony, the first I’ve ever seen. To think, I’d almost grabbed a branch during my talk
“That’s very much how we Aymara see ourselves, sharing and waiting. Meanwhile we remember.”
The Toyota horn blares. Luis has resurfaced and, as usual, the vehicle, which set off empty this morning, is now loaded with tightly bound bales and bundles and boxes. All office supplies, Luis claims. I suspect he’s a master smuggler.
The meeting has disintegrated, though in the golden flushes of late afternoon Elvira still lectures to a reduced circle. She’s glancing this way, probably sore at me for distorting the day’s business only to neglect it. But then a woozy Alberto’s also heading for censure; the beer-crates are empty. Sure enough, as the last passengers clamber around the cargo, first recriminations are being swapped in the cabin.
I fake sleep, floating on thoughts of the sturdy altiplano race that has resisted Incan empire, Spanish conquest and hostile takeover by europeanized Bolivians. I’m exempted from this dissolute list, aren’t I? Today the Laikas called me Viracocha, the bronze-aged, blue-eyed, golden-haired god who reputedly introduced agriculture and technology to the Andes. See, I’m no longer a horseman.
I’ll admit to admiring the Aymaras, their obstinacy and courage. Which is why the doctor’s comments, the very next day, floor me so completely.




Chapter 16
Sitting With the Doc at Bay


“Don’t make me laugh,” scoffs Dr. Beto Villegas. “They’re stupid, lazy animals, an evolutionary mistake.” Thoroughly enjoying my shock, he leans against the rickety table, prodding the limits of acceptable opinion. “The Indians are why this country is so backward. It costs us to drag them into the modern world,” though which branch of modernity Villegas represents is not apparent.
You know, I must be missing the Ché gene, the one that’d compel me either to eliminate this class-enemy or bury him in well-chosen insults, at least walk out. Geordie would blacken the scoundrel’s puffy eyes, but I can’t summon the passion. He’s a relic, an aberration, of no importance.
I sit on a broken chair, marvelling at the state of the Copcap clinic. A film of dust coats the metal stand where the few medicines languish. Packets of pills are scattered, red and white, blue and gold, like soldiers in ragged uniforms guarding some farthest frontier. I’ve seen doll’s-houses with first-aid kits of greater viability. Below the shelves, Ignatz’s blessed vaccines, unopened.
Dr.Villegas isn’t offering his filter cigarettes, so I light an Astoria. We shroud the clinic in smoke, but this morning there aren’t any patients to incovenience. Having nothing particular to express, I flick through the newspaper. And though the news is rather sad, well I just have to laugh. Minister of Labour admits to owning a fleet of trucks contrabandeando from the Chilean coast - La Paz mayor caught selling designated green areas to his pals - the president’s nephew revealed as head of the mafia, though el coronelito claims never to have met him - oh boy.
The doctor retrieves and folds the newspaper. “It’s simple to guess what you’re thinking. But let me inform you that,” he pronounces each word precisely, “Bolivia depends on corruption. Without a little greasing of the palms, we’d be bogged down in bureaucracy.” He’s barely begun, again.
“I know your type. Come here wanting to help and get suckered into admiring our native population. Then they’ll pull you into their quarrels and schemes. Dios mio, would you like the Indians to take over?”
Just as his preposterous barbs start to irritate, the nurse enters. A frisson of fabulous proportions passes between them, indicating just why an ageing, racist doctor would choose to bury himself in this shady little health project. Naughty Beto, playing Romeo in a tin-roofed, adobe love-shack. Darkly elegant, she’s worth it, she adds form to his vacuity.
Credit the doc, he camouflages his passion with a dry “Ah, nurse.”
And then both Beto and Vanesa jump, I swear they do, at the sound of the timid knock. A patient has managed to locate the clinic. He reacts first; “Pasé no más,” but whoever’s outside doesn’t enter. At the second knock, the nurse wrenches the door open, revealing the most weary of women, crying baby on her back, a girl of 8 or 9 whimpering in tow.
“Qué cosa?” snaps the doctor, willing them to disappear. “Well, don’t stand there wasting my time,” though we’ve done anything all morning except smoke. Exasperated, he retires to his desk. It’s Vanesa who unwraps the awayo cloth, tut-tutting and wrinkling her nose. The baby’s body is covered with bruises and welts.
“Do they have the slightest idea how to care for their young?” Villegas grumbles, ignoring the mother whose face is also cut and discoloured. And then to my astonishment, the prejudiced old rogue turns and interrogates her in fluent Aymara. The woman responds readily. “Says she fell down the stairs last night in the dark,” he snorts.
Vanesa recalls her training and the gears of the Copcap health project grind. The baby’s weighed, cleaned, doused with salves, gauzed. No questions are asked, the team clearly don’t relish inquiring into the abuse they’ve stumbled on. For good measure, both woman and girl receive a needle in the bum.
“Antibiotics,” explains the doc, responding to my raised eyebrow. “They don’t feel attended to unless we administer some sort of injection.” The mother is indeed appreciative, nodding her head during Beto’s finger-wagging lecture. “Si, doctor ....... no, doctor ....... muchas gracias, doctor.”
Doctor? Titles, titles, compulsory here in Bolivia, merited or not, especially when not. The way the office staff always refer to Edmundo as ‘licensiado’ cracks me up. Meaning, I’m informed, nothing more licentious than his university degree, but the way he ushers that secretary into the Trail Blazer each workday evening, does tend to encourage punning.
Beto fetches some Vitamin B capsules, sell-by date uncertain, slops a spoonful of cough-lotion down the daughter’s throat and blouse, before escorting the patients, with a caricature of respect, to the door. He has charged the poor woman the equivalent of half a dollar.
And now you’ll clearly expect, nay demand, that I storm out and denounce the whole offensive incident. Instead, an hour later, you’ll find the three of us still drinking coffee, smoking and chatting.
To excuse the inexcusable, let me just say that since coming to the Alto, I’ve been confronted by such solid folk, a regular phalanx of them, whose games I don’t comprehend and whose motives I distrust. With these two, fully trapped in their own world of fantasy, I find I can suddenly relax.
I have a deep curiosity about couples and their folly. As a child, I’d look up from my books and observe Joanne’s lovers parade through our house, strut and depart. Don’t be daft, she’d assure me, none of them is your father. Not that I pined for a pseudo-dad. My flower-maiden of a mother, so dependent on her independence, so scornful of lasting relationships, was a capable, dotty, loving parent. But, still, I did wonder.
This pair is classic; a true romance, quicksand for the soul.
What topics do we cover?
“My divorce is coming along fine,” says Vanesa, “considering the obstacles in a Catholic country.” And Beto, is he free? “I poisoned my wife, years ago.” Very funny, very likely.
That burst of Aymara? Beto grew up in the countryside, the son of an hacienda-owning family, shared his playtime with the native kids. “Until my parents sent me to a school in the city and then on to university. By the time I graduated, the Indians had ransacked the place, never been back there since.”
I mention the misdeeds of Melgarejo. “An ancestor of mine,” says Beto. “They malign him but, actualmente,” (favorite word), “he had the finest sense of humour in Bolivian history. The British ambassador refused to share chicha with him,” (fair enough, I treckon; the chicha corn-beer is fermented with human spittle). “Well, for that insolence, he had the grand gentleman exhibited next day around the streets of La Paz, seated backwards a donkey. Ha-ha.” When Beto cackles, brittle yellow teeth emerge like sodium crystals.
Some joke; I check the story later and discover that Beto has overlooked the sting in the tale. Queen Victoria, unamused, scratched Bolivia from her atlas. “This country no longer exists,” she shrilled and sure enough, five years later, the British incited Chile to take Bolivia’s Pacific coast. Actually.
Beto sits on his desk, Vanesa braves the swaying chair, her closeness mellowing his cynicism. I’m stretched on the rigid, narrow bed that slants downwards alarmingly. It’s hard to imagine where they get their loving done and I don’t ask. By the door, a fly feasts on the puddle of cough lotion.
Issues not discussed; whether rumours that Beto was struck from the medical register have any foundation, his views on this absurd health project, indeed his thoughts on the whole Copcap masquerade. I hope, one day, that he can enlighten me.
There is talk, though, of Club Always Ready and the tour of England:
“1961. I recall only fog and coal-dust. In Bolivia, we were known as ‘los Millionarios’. Over there they took us for paupers and freaks.” At the whine of resentment, she reaches for his hand. Enough - Joanne is right; how overloving couples stifle freedom, like they’re waltzing in a wardrobe. Beto/Van not composing, decomposing. Bye.
But I step from one irreality to the next. Here, by the airfield, the mad priest hasn’t waited for neighbourhoods to appear before tethering his latest churches to vacant lots. The anger I’ve dammed all morning bursts. Couldn’t Ignatz consider building a hospital?
Beto gambling on love, Ignatz who fails to see faith as an opthalmic condition and, of course, myself. We are insubstantial intruders. What business do we have on the Alto stage?



Chapter 17
Decent Proposals

You too must know; high on this desert plain, the streets have no names. The police patrol sporadically in Chinese-donated vehicles, they’ll even investigate if paid, but a complainant needs to guide them to the door. No mail deliveries, gas is sold from a roving truck, the (Spanish) electricity and (Argentinian) water companies have devised codes to identify their customers. Numbers, letters and dates abound – Calle 6, Avenida G, Villa 15 de febrero- it’s names which are scarce.
In fact, for me the streets mostly register as long gaps between the walls, access, space leftover. Since the Alto is a dance of rectangular infinities, the Choque family compound remains elusive, especially since the landmark chapel is now dwarfed by a 5-storey brick shell and my distinctive pothole lies under mud.. Still, asking around the grid, I will arrive.
So, what’s on offer this Saturday afternoon? Sections of the population are getting drunk, others are chained to tv, a religious minority chant and pray, but always allow for a pair of working hands like Dona Rosa’s.
She’s brushing her unbraided hair, snatching a breather after the rites of food preparation. Corn boils in a pot, quinua grain dries under the sun, strips of salted meat hang from the clothes-line. A moment of intimacy, an idyllic scene, except Rosa is suffering the occupational hazard of stay-at-home Alto women - she’s renegando – someone has irritated her.
Nevertheless, I receive an enthusiastic welcome, which the little kids ape, Ana’s kids most of all, hanging onto my jeans and raiding the pockets for chocolate. A word from Rosa sends them scampering back to the junkheaps of the yard.
Next jump the dogs. Bobby is the big, black dozy one that slobbers, his name a snipe at the Scottish engineers who bossed the building of the railroads last century. The spotted, white bitch is sneakier; once she attacked me after accepting a treat. Appropriately she’s called Goni, in honour of the previous president who sold bite-sized portions of the country to favoured bidders. Among the dispossessed, the naming of dogs is clearly a form of resistance.
“Bien, joven Jaime, dondé te has perdido?” Where have you lost yourself, she asks, a standard question if I don’t visit often enough. I’ve brought a pre-prepared reply; ‘I’m never lost. I always known where I am,’ but she frowns. The joke’s far too glib to use on a dignified matriarch and, in a wider sense, do I know my whereabouts?
Rosa turns on one of the teenagers running to the yard toilet. He’s forgotten his greetings. “No sabes saludar, Ricardo?” she bellows at the lad on his return. “Take Jaime in and present him, como gente.” Pretend you’re a person, she’s saying.
Their den, where the posters of Jesus and Ché are squaring up for the martyrweight championship of the world, is lit, as ever, by the throb of the tv screen. Now showing, a mellow massacre video, sponsored by the peace-loving citizens of Hollywood, USA. Hi kids. Hi, they manage, before re-tuning to the megadeath.
At last Rosa has concluded her tasks and leads me to the sanctum of her own room. Tea-time with an Earth Mother incarnate, the only Bolivian to remember that I take unsugared tea. But she’s upset, she’s chewing over her gripes of wrath. The woman I admire, complaining about a catalogue of minor sins, a lioness scratching at fleas.
“You’ll have to excuse me, Jaime. That daughter-in-law of mine, me ha hecho renegar,” she has made me get angry, classic cumbia claims, blanket blame. “She doesn’t cook, doesn’t wash the clothes, she doesn’t save money. La malcriada answers back, her kids are being brought up all wrong, and she’s talking to the neighbours about me.”
Women attacking other women is a sure sign of oppression. I don’t hear one word against Diego the drunk, only against the wife he batters. Mothers, dazzled by the brilliance of their sons, digging pits.
A baby’s cry. Rosa warms milk, collects the child and sets it sucking at a bottle. All the small kids have followed her in, seat themselves expectantly around the table. This tea ceremony seems to clear Rosa’s resentment.
“Knew you were coming,” she smiles. “I had a dream last night.”
“Good or bad?” For her everything is an omen, usually ominous.
Aymara and Quechua dreams work on symbolism, no room for interpretation. Turbulent waters mean danger, a mirror is betrayal, a black dog - watch out for thieves. And then the reversals; if you laugh in the dream, you’ll cry during the day, giving means losing, eating leads to hunger. Not for the first time, I sense the oppressive rigidity of this culture boxing me in.
“You were crossing a muddy river, laughing.” The children, dip bread in the steaming mugs, slurp and gobble contentedly. “There’s trouble in store, Jaime.” C’mon, why’s the news inevitably bad?
In my dreamworld, I replay the goals from another camera-angle, seeing both the wood and the trees. Last night I dreamt of pixie Sarah astride her 2-ton laser clock. She stared at me for a long time and then swung agilely onto the station platform.
As I’m recalling the dream, the electric cuckoo-clock above Rosa’s bed chooses to celebrate the hour with a warped, digital melody, mock Mozart - Sarah’s favorite composer. Synchronicity strikes. Pay attention, the moment is advising, a key event about to occur.
What, here?
The kids are tolerated as long as they conform to the harmony of the place but, once they start squabbling, Rosa banishes them, the baby too. First, they must thank each person in the room for the food, then they can tumble into the yard. Well brought up, if you like that kind of conformity. On her knees, Rosa wipes crumbs and liquids while our silence stretches into significance.
Eventually this declaration: “Usted es una persona muy recta,” a very straight person. Straight, indeed. I suppose integrity is what she means, but I almost giggle, almost confess to lusting after Julio. That might revise her opinion.
“You remind me of my husband Juán,” she continues, “muy recto. He was a mine worker, a man of strong principles, an organizer and a leader in the mining union. They killed him, you know.” The range of emotions contained in that short statement - disbelief, anger, pride, not bitterness.
. “In the massacre?”
“Later, in the 1970s”
“Desaparecido?”
“No, that would be some kind of mystery. We know very well who was responsible for his death. There was only one brute in charge of the country at the time.” Oh - el coronelito.
She recounts her path from there to here, of wandering and survival, rainy days spent washing the clothes of others, market-days, kids lost or grown. Moving to the Alto, squatting the land, founding and defending this neighbourhood against the military and thieves. Her sons and daughter were expected to endure, but instead, they have added to the pain.
My gaze out of the window at Ana’s two boys must be very obvious.
“And if you’re wondering about their father - good riddance. Threw him out herself.”
“I’ve never heard the story.”
“Then she will tell it to you herself, as she wishes.”
“But we’re hardly talking these days. There’s some kind of barrier between us. In fact, I’m very surprised she invited me over today.”
“Did she, now?” Doña Rosa trembles slightly, then calms herself.
“You have to understand how Ana feels about men. They were students - there was another woman - it was a terrible shock. And the kids to look after.” Romantic illusion without contraception is a common ailment in this country. Fortunately, I’m shielded from such nonsense (thanks, Joanne), unless the assault comes from the blind-side.
“She’d marry you, if you asked her.”
Do I blush like a beetroot or a tomato? More like a radish - the red face covers palid shock within. Because I discern a truth; Ana might well give herself to me, but only forever, on no other condition, and with a mandate that would be both tender and utterly dictatorial. A hell worse than fate.
The tumult in the yard saves me from analyzing this awful prospect. A woman and a teenage girl are grappling over a bag of cosmetics. The younger I remember, Viviana, who was goading her brothers to join the army last San Juan. The other, with the scraggly hair and a residual black-eye, is the daughter-in-law who has so offended Rosa. She’s Diego’s wife and it’s somehow typical of her low status that I never do discover her name.
Mother and daughter are scratching and screeching, spitting like wildcats. Rosa bolts from the room, the missing lynx, pulled into the fight. Three generations of squabbling women. Has to be a everyday occurrence, since the little kids don’t interrupt their game.
When my idol, panting and glaring, has forfeited enough dignity, she returns to rest those feet of clay. I’m still not eager to explore her startling proposal, so it’s convenient that Ana herself barges in, scattering files and papers on the table.
A kiss for Mama, handshake for me, the kettle put to boil again, but Doña Rosa doesn’t settle. She has an anxious question for her daughter.
“Pancho’s been in touch, hasn’t he? Dios mio,”she wails.
Another symptom of her growing weakness is that Rosa has recently discovered the Lord. After resisting the military and their mob, to succumb to the preacherman is a disappointment, even to herself. She breaks into sobs and these tears aren’t tactical like so many hereabouts. Rather, they are a seepage of inner strength. For Rosa, life has long since ceased to be a rose-coloured spectacle.
“The first time I saw Jaime, I knew this would happen, that sooner or later Pancho would want to contact him.”
“Mamita, let me deal with this in my own way.”
“Why do you always need to drag people in?”
Excuse me, my dears, but I happen to be present. When you’ve finished hugging and moaning, a summary of the melodrama might help. An absent son/brother, isn’t it?
“You have met him, briefly.”
“Yes, during San Juan. He was quite evasive.”
Ana considers not replying, then sighs. “Pancho has to be, living en la clandestinidad.” On the run, underground - how exciting! My sense of risk, honed on the historically authenticated adventures of Alice and Don Quixote, is stirred. Exactly what I was warned to avoid and all the more reason to proceed blindly.
“Cuidado - my Pancho is really persuasive,” pleads Rosa in tempting tones. “This is something you don’t need to get into, Jaime.” Oh, but I do, I do. Otherwise I might spend my days nattering to Beto by his dry river-bed or isolate myself within walls and turn to rust.
Really, it’s me he wants to meet?
Shoulders are shrugged.
Where?
Doña Rosa bobs her head in a circle, tortoise-fashion, which I take to indicate anywhere and everywhere. El Alto - featureless city, full of design - the perfect hideaway.
Ana says, “You will be notified.”
Why me?
Because I’m game - because I’m fair game.

Chapters 11-14

Let's speed up a bit, I've advertised this blog some more at the weekend. Is anybody going to read it? Hop springs eternal.


Chapter 11
Villa Abdullah

“Odd how my duties have suddenly been changed.”
“We all do whatever’s necessary.” Anna casts her reply into the bitter wind without turning. Heads down, we measure our distance in silence. There’s a fine new road to Villa Adela, but she’s decided against the bus, wanting the opportunity to talk with her constituency, the group members we meet on the way.
Scratching at scar tissue, I persevere, “Edgar’s distancing me on purpose.”
“That’s not my fault,” she snaps, hunching into herself. On we plod.
Since I misguidedly hawked the idea of a questionnaire around the second floor and word leaked, I’m no longer permitted to visit the groups. That’s my problem, but what’s bugging Ana?
Surely Ana never swallowed that nonsense about romance blossoming between us, but she may have yearned. And I do suspect Mama Rosa of plans, in which a certain volunteer figures as the knight in shining armour. Sorry to decline the role but I prefer my women a little more mercurial. On we plod.
“It’s that brother of yours, isn’t it?” I blurt out, thinking of Diego, the drunken devil. Her eyes widen, alarmed: “Just what have you heard about Pancho?”
No chance to reply. A group of women, crouching by a wall, hail us. Their tiny market, a pitiful, improvised affair, offers a few discoloured ears of corn and some sad potatoes. It takes me a while to recognise the leader of the Atipiris sitting there, she’s swapped her bowler for a Chicago Bulls cap.
“Joven Jaimito, where’ve you been?” exclaims Doña Teofila, pulling me down to her embrace.
“Busy,” I reply, remembering to be circumspect.
“Not too busy to visit your friends. There’s a meeting next Thursday and we want you to be there.”
“Right now I’m not permitted unscheduled visits.”
“Schedule it, because we’re expecting you. Bring some games,” by which I presume she means role-plays, not scrabble. “Shall we?” I whisper to Ana. She shrugs. “You’re the one they’re inviting.” To settle the deal, I’m handed a boiled apricot drink, sugared beyond diabetes. As I lift the glass to my lips, a flying plastic bag slaps my forehead. The vendors chuckle mercilessly, then stand, gathering their wares in those vividly coloured carrying-clothes, the awayos. Dusting grit and mud from the children, the women set off in a pack. We follow.
“Ready for the Mass, eh, Jaime? The padre’s expecting us,” jokes Ana, more animated now, punching my arm while I consider this news.
“No entiendo nada. We’re going to collect vaccines, what’s the connection? I mean, is this priest also a doctor?” Ana’s retreated to the stragglers where my words float past on the wind. I let myself be blown to the rear and ask again.
“Ignacio’s holding on to the vaccines because he’s considered the only non-corrupt person in the Alto, that’s why.”
“And who’s opinion is that?”
“Well, the president’s, for one. He’s given him exclusive control over all international donations to the Alto.” More señoras have attached themselves to our progress, we’re really trawling them in.
“And you go along with that, Ana? Don’t you find it a bit insulting to the locals? Like they can’t be trusted to manage their own affairs.”
“I never said I agreed, Jaime,” she blazes. “I’m simply advising you why el padre has the vaccines, and that he’s not going hand them over until,” ....... we’ve knelt in homage, end of discussion. It occurs to me that Ana’s accompanying me today because I can’t be trusted to negotiate calmly with this Ignatz.
It’s part of the message spreading from the top floor; James has become a loose cannon, a liability. Relieved of duties in the groups, I’m consigned to odd-jobs such as delivering these vaccines to the doctor (whose clinic is considered sufficiently remote). I look forward to meeting him. He used to be medical assistant to a professional football team by the intriguing name of Always Ready.
As we enter Villa Adela, Ignacio’s turf, the first of the priest’s twelve churches looms to the right, a Swiss chalet with optional wedding-cake trimmings. Villa Adela is a middle-class enclave, planned to serve as an example to all these migrants moving in from the countryside. I know others, Ciudad Satelite, Primero de Mayo, Santiago Segundo; none of them has exactly thrived.
Adobe homes are unsuitable for the alteño bourgeoisie, so the settlers were offered viviendas - bricky boxes, half the size of the usual immigrant lots, twice the price and so poorly constructed they’re impossible to enlarge. Wonderful credit terms though.
Inevitably, however, on the outer fringe of half a million newcomers, Villa Adela was lapsing into nowhere-ville. Until the coming of Ignatz, who had designs, a dozen or more. Squinting into the headwind, I now inspect the extent of his follies.
Church to the left, California mission style, a red-tile roof and white plastered walls - not so bad. But what’s that monster Minnesota barn doing next to it? A turn of thirty degrees, takes in the temple with Grecian columns, and, nearby, an abstract daub in concrete, his gesture to the modern. On the horizon, a fairy palace, or its outhouse. My oh my, in this dusty remoteness, Disney meets Dali in a surreal fantasia.
Like jealous children, they clamour for attention, though of course Ignatz’s own flagship church manages to trump their absurdity. Meet Cuerpo de Cristo (Christ’s Body), a transplant from Constantinople in the shape of a byzantine chive about to bloom. Each side of the central tower has a clock-face with no hands. Four timeless clocks, a reference to eternity or evidence of the priest’s utter disregard for reality?
On the perimeter wall, a painting of the crucifixion oozes blood. Is the man mad? Am I, for allowing a horde of market women drag me to mass?
Soon find out. The perpetrator of the sabbath din, white-faced, white-robed, white hair overflowing, waits in the courtyard. To the churning of recorded bells, the priest advances, pale blue eyes attempting to bore into my pysche. Boring! Establishing his omniscience, he addresses me in a correct, guttural English.
“Velcome. Let us enter and celebrate holee mass togezer.” The sweep of his arm brooks no refusal. The German shepherd guides his flock into a concrete tent-like structure of pews, statues and light. The setting is so elaborate (beautiful too, I have to admit), our knitting women are overawed. Always dignified, even when wiping baby’s bottom, here they seem dwarfed. Not that the building is big, but the cultural overlay is huge.
Within five minutes, I decide to sneak off for a smoke, forgetting that Ignacio has a portable mike. His wooing voice sidles low over the speakers, this time in Spanish. “No te vayas, amigo.” I will not be humiliated into compliance, though heads are turning.
The skyline is dominated by spires and towers, but peasant life seeps through the pretensions - after all, this is the Alto. I crank my spluttering rage into a list of similes. These buildings – as appropriate as a cigar after a lung transplant, handy as an encyclopedia in a kindergarten, helpful as an IMF loan to an impoverished dictatorship, useful as a hamburger chain in the desert, welcome as a cruise missile at a peace rally ...........
I become aware of an intruding presence. His voice, no longer mellow, scratches like a 78 disc. “You’re not a believer, then?” Ignatz wipes his wire specs, inspects me from head to toe. Hiking boots, faded jeans, favorite sweater, moustache (a recent addition), shock of hair - Ach so; ‘hippy’, he judges.
I’d love to reply, “Sure I believe, but none of your gods lives in these dolls’ houses,” but restrain myself. The Mullah of Villa Abdullah, maniac and saint, impales me on his stare. At work I’m merely a nuisance, an ant ambling round the rim of the sugarbowl. Here, I meet some serious antagonism.
Some twenty women are streaming into the sunlight. They can’t leave me without a formal farewell, but Ignatz glaring over their shoulders flusters my aim - backslap, shake ....... how does it go? Left hand, right hand, embrace ........ bastard., the priest has made me loose the thread.
Teofila and other two Atipiris knitters kindly steer me away. “Thursday, then.”
“I’m not so sure I’ll find the place again.”
“My son will meet you at. Can you remember how to get to Senkata?”
“And if I don’t recognize your son.”
Laughter; “Don’t worry, he’ll know you. Nine o’clock in the morning, entonces,” and they disperse into the dog-smeared streets of Villa Abdullah.
Ana and I start walking to Rio Seco, towards the doctor, vaccines tucked securely under our arms, leaving the Ignatz bizarchitecture heritage-site behind, re-entering adobe precincts. But the priest’s amplified voice floats behind us, cooing and hailing in total-surround sound. Maybe he also controls the heavens, since a sudden, stinging hailstorm lashes our faces..
“Quit sulking, Jaime. And don’t invent enemies. The padre’s truly a kind and generous person,” Ana insists. “His heart’s in the right place.” We’re approaching the corner of the airport perimeter-fence. It inspires her to launch into the following anecdote, about the day Ignacio blessed the new installations so kindly donated by the Japanese.
Natural enough to include the local priest from an adjacent parish. He could even make a little speech to express the thanks felt by all alteños for this push towards modernity.
Under a blazing sun, the guests have assembled near the runway. El gringito Goni, president of the republic, surrounded by bodyguards in sun-shades, behind them ambassadors, ministers and sub-secretaries, the municipal brass band, press photographers, you can imagine.
The platitudes are gushing nicely, like crude oil, until Ignacio steps forward. Beginning with a few words to the Japanese ambassador, he wonders if the $30 million mightn’t be better invested in projects within the Alto itself. The airport, he continues, is not connected to the lives of the local people. In fact, it’s a real threat; apart from the noise of the aircraft and the contamination Who knows but that at any moment one of those flying machines might drop out of the sky. Why not move the airport elsewhere, he suggests, and turn the space into a park?
The president’s trained smile holds steady, but his cheeks redden. Ignacio fetches a sprinkling device called a hyssop for the holy-water rite. But he isn’t sprinkling, he’s chucking the stuff around - well, the morning’s hot.
Ana rocks with glee. She has to steady herself on the chain-link fence of the airport. “Ignacio had arrived late as usual and disracted, without any of his equipment. So he asked the janitor, Demetrio, to help out.” Her merriment peaks. “And Demetrio gave him the pail and the mop from the men’s toilet.”
“He used the bathroom wiper to bless the president? You’re kidding.”
“Don Demetrio is my neighbour. He told me himself. The padre gets very enthusiastic.” Or righteously angry; el gringito had just gifted the country to the multi-nationals. “He soaked the president from head to foot.”
The tale is interrupted by a jet thundering in low to land, barely above us, deafeningly close. I look up into the belly of the beast. Around us, on the riverbed, men and women continue shovelling gravel, sand, stones onto battered trucks.
Ana later shows me a newspaper clipping of the event. One embarrassed minister is staring at a distant mountain, the other is cleaning his glasses. A sub-secretary is fishing a speck of dust from his eye. The Japanese ambassador smirks most undiplomatically and the members of the band have laid down their instruments, they’re guffawing. El gringito’s hand is raised to prevent his bodyguards attacking the turbulent priest. Ignacio looks rapturous, his reputation as a holy idiot secured.
And this is man I crossed today.
The clinic is locked.
The doctor isn’t always ready, evidently।



Chapter 12
An Appearance

My entry doesn’t disturb the rhythm of the group, no-one pauses. Just another worker entering the hive, quite a compliment. I circulate clockwise round the room, bending to greet each Atipiri. Needles clack, spindles spin.
The protocol of introduction: “Joven Jaime, whom you all know, has come here today to teach us.”
The applause induces my mouth to gallop ahead of good sense.
“Actually, I’m here to learn,” I exclaim, baffling the señoras. “About your lives, your work and your reality. You can teach me so much and at the same time learn about yourselves.” Doña Teofila bravely conducts another round of applause, but, having lost my audience, there’s really no option but to perform.
Ana stresses the importance of a warm-up. Fine, she always begins with a bit of horseplay, so I’ll do the same, though I feel foolish inviting reluctant volunteers. Teofila urges and then finally coerces a few women to stand warily by my side in front of the worktable. The loan of a hat, please. A simple game, Ana had said, to build confidence. Into the hat, that bowlerful of identity, sweat-stained and personal, I throw the slips of paper she’s prepared. Dip your hand in, madam. Qué dice, qué dice? What does it say? Her friends crowd round.
From the first they perform with gusto. ‘Dance a morenada’ - no problem - two women, then half a dozen, shuffle and swagger like troupers, so contagiously that the rest join in, some clapping, others humming or singing. The joint is rocking.
Next paper out of the hat, eat a sandwich while standing on one leg, should be good for a laugh if they can just manage to find some bread and a filling. Imitating an animal I consider borderline, undignified maybe, yet Ana’s chosen well; the hen and the dog have them rolling in the aisles. Imagine any London schoolkids above the age of seven exposing themselves to ridicule that way.
Then eddies interrupt the flow. The final slip of paper reads ‘Voy a contar mis tristes penas’ (Gonna tell you about my sad troubles). It’s the chorus from a popular folksong and I expect the señora to sing. Instead, she launches into her troubles. A tale of hail; the storm that fell on the potato plants and ruined the whole crop, and now there’s no cash to pay back my aunt, who’ll complain to my husband and he’ll beat me again, he will, before disappearing on any excuse, again, he will.
The woman falters tearfully, but others take up her lament – my son run over by a bus and the doctor who mis-set his leg. A stolen tv, the documents to the house gone, a husband who turns up drunk only when the other woman has thrown him out. The potato-saga woman rejoins in Aymara and soon more contribute their tristes penas. Stately as a Greek chorus, the wailers sway to the centre of the room, their kids scampering clear.
What have I gone and done? Or is this Ana’s trick set to destroy a promising career? Burning with embarrassment, I’m ready to apologize when an outbreak of laughter suddenly purges the plaint. Men, predictable as planets in their orbits, but these women, I can neither guess nor gauge their responses. Last sighs subsiding, they’re now facing me with complete attention.
Well, the idea of forming into groups according to birthdays had seemed logical enough last night under the gaze of my spider. No birth certificates, Jaime, they claim, date of birth unknown. I don’t insist.
Rolls of poster-sized paper, a range of markers, paints, rulers, pencils, crayons, innocence and energy: I’ve arrived dutifully eqipped, but I’m stumbling into this venture without experience. What the heck - freeze or fly.
Can’t decipher the scribble in my notebook. Oh yeah, it reads ‘let the women express themselves’ - how praiseworthy. The Atipris skill being handicrafts, I’ve planned to bypass language and get them to draw a mural. The first group will focus on their families, the second on the neighbourhood and the third on work. Neat, except that the women are grumbling again. Why this civil disobedience?
“I’m only a tenant.”
“My family here or in the countryside?”
“We work on the sweaters at home. Is that family?”
They’re baiting me, gently, amicably, efficiently.
More pre-textual tension; the group by the window has taken the paper from the wall and laid it on the ground. Those children who aren’t stamping on the sheet are chewing crayons and markers. Relax, Jaime; the señoras are on the job, consulting each other, painting first sketches between their kids’ toes. Think positive.
I’ll go over and say a word to the ex-miners (you can tell because they’re in mufti not traditional dress) who’ve stuck their sheet on the wall and then resumed knitting. No, they inform me, we’ve never felt at home in the city, why should we take part in this childish game? Then show life in the mining community, I hazard. The slightest spin and they’re sparking, enthused.
The room hums; this might work out.
A third set of women need to be stopped copying sweater designs onto the sheet. Sure, I agree, that’s work but your world is wider. How do they receive you in the office, for example? When there are no orders for the knitting, what do you do to survive?
My intention is for the groups to rotate so there’ll be only one sheet of family images, one for the neighbourhood, one for work. The groups refuse to change places. Too much bother, the women explain, what with our kids and bundles. OK, you can stay where you are and the posters move round. No - as adamant as diamond-headed drills - each group must draw everything they know. I give up, wouldn’t dare to oppose their will and, anyway, tienen razon, they’re right, a series of complete visions makes more sense.
The women present the murals, cautiously at first, then blossoming with a grace and economy of words that would shame most orators. Doña Juana, heavy bell-curved skirt of green, brown shawl, bowler hat poised on the crown of her head, points a metal ruler at stick figures, crudely drawn, clear in meaning.
“Is that a child’s coffin on the shoulders of the mourners?” I enquire.
“No importa – doesn’t matter, could be young or old. There aren’t any doctors near us.” But I saw a hospital on the way over. “You go to hospitals to die. They’re not for the healthy.” Murmurs of approval from her companions.
Behind the funeral cortege, the man with the bottle and a woman collapsed at his feet - domestic violence? The other members of the group chime in. “He drinks all the money when he’s home.” “Better that he’s far away.” “Let his other woman suffer.”
What else? Gangs and robberies in the neighbourhood scenes, a rubbish tip or two, precious little communal activity. “We work together to get the water and electricity laid on.” “Or to organize a fiesta” suggestion from the corner - yaah, they heckle, “but, beyond that, forget neighbours.” “Each for ourselves,” interrupts a mining woman. “Didn’t used to be like that. I knew everyone in the zone - not now.” “You mean you used to gossip about everyone and now you can’t.” Yaah.
Not quite what I anticipated.
The world of work; they draw the sweaters, of course, street markets too and a mining camp on the flanks of a mountain. The Copcap office, leaning angled and tall like a deranged rocket. A meeting, probably of the directorio, is in progress around a table. On the stairs, Ana, neither up nor down, returns rejected jumpers to a line of women, while Elvira counts money. A stout bearded figure and his spindly accomplice are jumping from the hatch, their pockets stuffed with dollar bills. No wool over these knitters’ eyes.
The presentations over, this is my chance to weave the yarns into a fabric, and represent it, neatly bundled, to the señoras so they can swoon with enlightenment. Instead I stumble over a few points already made, then, on the brink of disaster, have the sense/luck to ask the right question.
“So, tell me, how was the Atipiris group founded?”
This oral history is composed of equal parts enthusiasm and pride.
“We were working for the food handouts......... madres abandonadas in the Mothers’ Club........... had to work........ they made us lay roads and dig trenches........ the rice and sugar and beans and flour came in useful though........and that’s how we met, those that didn’t know each other before, but we needed some othet type of work ........... we attended courses, and one was a knitting course...... the speaker told us that we could sell jumpers all over the world........... well, knitting’s something we know ....... around the mines you’d die of cold without the layers of clothing....... in the countryside too........used to knit our own, wasn’t like now with all this foreign second-hand clothing .............. and we are good at knitting, our hands, you know ........ the spare wool comes in useful too, we make extra things for our kids.”
The woman who added that last statement is ruthlessly elbowed by her neighbour. This loss of wool, about which Ana constantly complains, is a group secret Forefinger over my lips to pledge silence, complicity. A flow of sorts resumes.
“Then the padre got us an order from his country.” Ignacio again? “Yes, just once, though. After that we had a long workless time until the association turned up.”
The association?
“That’s who you work for, Jaime.” Oh yeah. So what’s in a name? But when it comes to discussing Copcap, by association their thoughts fog, they’re not eager to talk.
Have you any idea what happens to your work after you’ve sent it to the office? No clear notion, not beyond Ana’s tape-measure and her verdict. If the sweater’s rejected, they re-do it; if accepted, they’re paid. The lucky knitter gets three dollars in local currency for a sweater that can’t possibly sell for less than fifty on the European market. Spinners receive less.
Proudly, they place knitwear on the table for my inspection. I’m careful not to insult the group, but don’t reckon I’d buy any of these. Even to my untrained eye, the jumpers seem badly proportioned; is it the waist, the sleeves or the neck? I wouldn’t wear that snowy mountain and llama design, my mates’d laugh. The fingers of the gloves don’t correspond to human anatomy and the scarves are too long, too short, too coarse, too vivid, too drab.
Later, when I tackle Ana about this design problem, she scoffs, calls me ignorant though I must be right, since no client ever repeats an order. Bought with goodwill, the unsaleable items are mouldering on charity-shop shelves from San Francisco to Berlin, a clear example of how Copcap runs a show, not a business.
We break to share a mid-day meal of fried eggs and noodles in a chilli sauce capable of vaporizing most known life-forms.. The lakeside merienda was fresher, but lunch with these women is a great honour. We visit Julio’s greenhouse, before they retire me gently to a corner, where I’m free to savour the bustle of the hive.
The skirts, the blouses, the shawls, vibrate in colours of affirmation, challenging an outside world that’s dun and tan. The rhythm of the needles, the whirl of the spindles, set me nodding as soundly as a cat slumbering at granny’s feet.
I’m nudged awake: “So, what were you doing last night that made you so tired, Jaime? Tell us her name.” And they send me home - if I can find it.
“No, guide, gracias. I’ll manage.”
Afternoon shadows stretch, almost substantial, deeper than darkness against the glare of the sun. My shadow moves ahead, a loping stick-figure out of the mural. Alteños pass by, oblivious, with their peculiar, stooped walk, not bent as when carrying a sack of cement, rather, scanning ahead for trip-wires. The kids don’t point. No-one stares, no-one stops open-mouthed at the apparition of a young gringo, at home and out of place in the Alto.
Wandering in the maze of mudbrick townships, I spot a half-formed wall, enclosing a surviving patch of altiplano, twenty metres by ten. A perfect site to light up and enjoy the of the Israeli’s grass. I deserve this, don’t I?
The weed scythes through tangled thoughts.
Those women are incredible.
I’m a lucky fool who has blundered onto an enjoyable day.
There’ll be a price to pay when Edmund and Oswald find out.




“My instructions were very specific,” shouts Edmundo. “Weren’t they?”
Silence.
“You did understand them, young man? Or do you consider me some sort of clown that you feel free to ignore?” Insubordinate if I reply, guilty when I don’t. The controllers in my life who’ve pulled this ploy.
Both are apparently furious, though only Edmundo looks livid, the fat of his face discolouring. Oswaldo stands behind, waiting for the heart attack that will ease his chief from the swivel-chair. A pendulum ride; from a safe height, I observe a comic pair of grown men, the Laurel and Hardy of small-enterprise, faking a fit over my insignificant offense. The next oscillation, I’m staring at power; Jim on the carpet, over the coals, on the rack, about to be repatriated just when he’s settling nicely.
Luckily, Pamela shimmies through at this point, whispers something into Edmundo’s ear. I sense her tongue explore his lobe, her hand carress his back. He shivers with delight, then drags himself to the door. Oswaldo makes a slender excuse to escape. My pacing unnerves him.
After five minutes, Little and Large return, scenting blood.
“It was deliberate. You disobeyed orders and just went off on your own mission.” The military metaphors are fine, but in terms of stalking, Stalker’s far ahead. During their absence, I set to studying the array of certificates and diplomas on Edmundo’s wall (summer course at the London School of Economics last year, that’s interesting – just when the Copcap recruitment ad appeared in the papers) and also happen to glance at a sheet of paper on the desk. $135,000 is a hell of an amount for one year’s budget of the health project and I still haven’t caught sight of the doctor.
“I shall be submitting a report on your behaviour to the Directorio meeting next Tuesday,” storms Large. “I expect you already know what my recommendations will be.”
“Yes,” snipes Little, “I can’t imagine what we were thinking when we engaged your services, such as they are.”



Chapter 12
An Appearance

My entry doesn’t disturb the rhythm of the group, no-one pauses. Just another worker entering the hive, quite a compliment. I circulate clockwise round the room, bending to greet each Atipiri. Needles clack, spindles spin.
The protocol of introduction: “Joven Jaime, whom you all know, has come here today to teach us.”
The applause induces my mouth to gallop ahead of good sense.
“Actually, I’m here to learn,” I exclaim, baffling the señoras. “About your lives, your work and your reality. You can teach me so much and at the same time learn about yourselves.” Doña Teofila bravely conducts another round of applause, but, having lost my audience, there’s really no option but to perform.
Ana stresses the importance of a warm-up. Fine, she always begins with a bit of horseplay, so I’ll do the same, though I feel foolish inviting reluctant volunteers. Teofila urges and then finally coerces a few women to stand warily by my side in front of the worktable. The loan of a hat, please. A simple game, Ana had said, to build confidence. Into the hat, that bowlerful of identity, sweat-stained and personal, I throw the slips of paper she’s prepared. Dip your hand in, madam. Qué dice, qué dice? What does it say? Her friends crowd round.
From the first they perform with gusto. ‘Dance a morenada’ - no problem - two women, then half a dozen, shuffle and swagger like troupers, so contagiously that the rest join in, some clapping, others humming or singing. The joint is rocking.
Next paper out of the hat, eat a sandwich while standing on one leg, should be good for a laugh if they can just manage to find some bread and a filling. Imitating an animal I consider borderline, undignified maybe, yet Ana’s chosen well; the hen and the dog have them rolling in the aisles. Imagine any London schoolkids above the age of seven exposing themselves to ridicule that way.
Then eddies interrupt the flow. The final slip of paper reads ‘Voy a contar mis tristes penas’ (Gonna tell you about my sad troubles). It’s the chorus from a popular folksong and I expect the señora to sing. Instead, she launches into her troubles. A tale of hail; the storm that fell on the potato plants and ruined the whole crop, and now there’s no cash to pay back my aunt, who’ll complain to my husband and he’ll beat me again, he will, before disappearing on any excuse, again, he will.
The woman falters tearfully, but others take up her lament – my son run over by a bus and the doctor who mis-set his leg. A stolen tv, the documents to the house gone, a husband who turns up drunk only when the other woman has thrown him out. The potato-saga woman rejoins in Aymara and soon more contribute their tristes penas. Stately as a Greek chorus, the wailers sway to the centre of the room, their kids scampering clear.
What have I gone and done? Or is this Ana’s trick set to destroy a promising career? Burning with embarrassment, I’m ready to apologize when an outbreak of laughter suddenly purges the plaint. Men, predictable as planets in their orbits, but these women, I can neither guess nor gauge their responses. Last sighs subsiding, they’re now facing me with complete attention.
Well, the idea of forming into groups according to birthdays had seemed logical enough last night under the gaze of my spider. No birth certificates, Jaime, they claim, date of birth unknown. I don’t insist.
Rolls of poster-sized paper, a range of markers, paints, rulers, pencils, crayons, innocence and energy: I’ve arrived dutifully eqipped, but I’m stumbling into this venture without experience. What the heck - freeze or fly.
Can’t decipher the scribble in my notebook. Oh yeah, it reads ‘let the women express themselves’ - how praiseworthy. The Atipris skill being handicrafts, I’ve planned to bypass language and get them to draw a mural. The first group will focus on their families, the second on the neighbourhood and the third on work. Neat, except that the women are grumbling again. Why this civil disobedience?
“I’m only a tenant.”
“My family here or in the countryside?”
“We work on the sweaters at home. Is that family?”
They’re baiting me, gently, amicably, efficiently.
More pre-textual tension; the group by the window has taken the paper from the wall and laid it on the ground. Those children who aren’t stamping on the sheet are chewing crayons and markers. Relax, Jaime; the señoras are on the job, consulting each other, painting first sketches between their kids’ toes. Think positive.
I’ll go over and say a word to the ex-miners (you can tell because they’re in mufti not traditional dress) who’ve stuck their sheet on the wall and then resumed knitting. No, they inform me, we’ve never felt at home in the city, why should we take part in this childish game? Then show life in the mining community, I hazard. The slightest spin and they’re sparking, enthused.
The room hums; this might work out.
A third set of women need to be stopped copying sweater designs onto the sheet. Sure, I agree, that’s work but your world is wider. How do they receive you in the office, for example? When there are no orders for the knitting, what do you do to survive?
My intention is for the groups to rotate so there’ll be only one sheet of family images, one for the neighbourhood, one for work. The groups refuse to change places. Too much bother, the women explain, what with our kids and bundles. OK, you can stay where you are and the posters move round. No - as adamant as diamond-headed drills - each group must draw everything they know. I give up, wouldn’t dare to oppose their will and, anyway, tienen razon, they’re right, a series of complete visions makes more sense.
The women present the murals, cautiously at first, then blossoming with a grace and economy of words that would shame most orators. Doña Juana, heavy bell-curved skirt of green, brown shawl, bowler hat poised on the crown of her head, points a metal ruler at stick figures, crudely drawn, clear in meaning.
“Is that a child’s coffin on the shoulders of the mourners?” I enquire.
“No importa – doesn’t matter, could be young or old. There aren’t any doctors near us.” But I saw a hospital on the way over. “You go to hospitals to die. They’re not for the healthy.” Murmurs of approval from her companions.
Behind the funeral cortege, the man with the bottle and a woman collapsed at his feet - domestic violence? The other members of the group chime in. “He drinks all the money when he’s home.” “Better that he’s far away.” “Let his other woman suffer.”
What else? Gangs and robberies in the neighbourhood scenes, a rubbish tip or two, precious little communal activity. “We work together to get the water and electricity laid on.” “Or to organize a fiesta” suggestion from the corner - yaah, they heckle, “but, beyond that, forget neighbours.” “Each for ourselves,” interrupts a mining woman. “Didn’t used to be like that. I knew everyone in the zone - not now.” “You mean you used to gossip about everyone and now you can’t.” Yaah.
Not quite what I anticipated.
The world of work; they draw the sweaters, of course, street markets too and a mining camp on the flanks of a mountain. The Copcap office, leaning angled and tall like a deranged rocket. A meeting, probably of the directorio, is in progress around a table. On the stairs, Ana, neither up nor down, returns rejected jumpers to a line of women, while Elvira counts money. A stout bearded figure and his spindly accomplice are jumping from the hatch, their pockets stuffed with dollar bills. No wool over these knitters’ eyes.
The presentations over, this is my chance to weave the yarns into a fabric, and represent it, neatly bundled, to the señoras so they can swoon with enlightenment. Instead I stumble over a few points already made, then, on the brink of disaster, have the sense/luck to ask the right question.
“So, tell me, how was the Atipiris group founded?”
This oral history is composed of equal parts enthusiasm and pride.
“We were working for the food handouts......... madres abandonadas in the Mothers’ Club........... had to work........ they made us lay roads and dig trenches........ the rice and sugar and beans and flour came in useful though........and that’s how we met, those that didn’t know each other before, but we needed some othet type of work ........... we attended courses, and one was a knitting course...... the speaker told us that we could sell jumpers all over the world........... well, knitting’s something we know ....... around the mines you’d die of cold without the layers of clothing....... in the countryside too........used to knit our own, wasn’t like now with all this foreign second-hand clothing .............. and we are good at knitting, our hands, you know ........ the spare wool comes in useful too, we make extra things for our kids.”
The woman who added that last statement is ruthlessly elbowed by her neighbour. This loss of wool, about which Ana constantly complains, is a group secret Forefinger over my lips to pledge silence, complicity. A flow of sorts resumes.
“Then the padre got us an order from his country.” Ignacio again? “Yes, just once, though. After that we had a long workless time until the association turned up.”
The association?
“That’s who you work for, Jaime.” Oh yeah. So what’s in a name? But when it comes to discussing Copcap, by association their thoughts fog, they’re not eager to talk.
Have you any idea what happens to your work after you’ve sent it to the office? No clear notion, not beyond Ana’s tape-measure and her verdict. If the sweater’s rejected, they re-do it; if accepted, they’re paid. The lucky knitter gets three dollars in local currency for a sweater that can’t possibly sell for less than fifty on the European market. Spinners receive less.
Proudly, they place knitwear on the table for my inspection. I’m careful not to insult the group, but don’t reckon I’d buy any of these. Even to my untrained eye, the jumpers seem badly proportioned; is it the waist, the sleeves or the neck? I wouldn’t wear that snowy mountain and llama design, my mates’d laugh. The fingers of the gloves don’t correspond to human anatomy and the scarves are too long, too short, too coarse, too vivid, too drab.
Later, when I tackle Ana about this design problem, she scoffs, calls me ignorant though I must be right, since no client ever repeats an order. Bought with goodwill, the unsaleable items are mouldering on charity-shop shelves from San Francisco to Berlin, a clear example of how Copcap runs a show, not a business.
We break to share a mid-day meal of fried eggs and noodles in a chilli sauce capable of vaporizing most known life-forms.. The lakeside merienda was fresher, but lunch with these women is a great honour. We visit Julio’s greenhouse, before they retire me gently to a corner, where I’m free to savour the bustle of the hive.
The skirts, the blouses, the shawls, vibrate in colours of affirmation, challenging an outside world that’s dun and tan. The rhythm of the needles, the whirl of the spindles, set me nodding as soundly as a cat slumbering at granny’s feet.
I’m nudged awake: “So, what were you doing last night that made you so tired, Jaime? Tell us her name.” And they send me home - if I can find it.
“No, guide, gracias. I’ll manage.”
Afternoon shadows stretch, almost substantial, deeper than darkness against the glare of the sun. My shadow moves ahead, a loping stick-figure out of the mural. Alteños pass by, oblivious, with their peculiar, stooped walk, not bent as when carrying a sack of cement, rather, scanning ahead for trip-wires. The kids don’t point. No-one stares, no-one stops open-mouthed at the apparition of a young gringo, at home and out of place in the Alto.
Wandering in the maze of mudbrick townships, I spot a half-formed wall, enclosing a surviving patch of altiplano, twenty metres by ten. A perfect site to light up and enjoy the of the Israeli’s grass. I deserve this, don’t I?
The weed scythes through tangled thoughts.
Those women are incredible.
I’m a lucky fool who has blundered onto an enjoyable day.
There’ll be a price to pay when Edmund and Oswald find out.




“My instructions were very specific,” shouts Edmundo. “Weren’t they?”
Silence.
“You did understand them, young man? Or do you consider me some sort of clown that you feel free to ignore?” Insubordinate if I reply, guilty when I don’t. The controllers in my life who’ve pulled this ploy.
Both are apparently furious, though only Edmundo looks livid, the fat of his face discolouring. Oswaldo stands behind, waiting for the heart attack that will ease his chief from the swivel-chair. A pendulum ride; from a safe height, I observe a comic pair of grown men, the Laurel and Hardy of small-enterprise, faking a fit over my insignificant offense. The next oscillation, I’m staring at power; Jim on the carpet, over the coals, on the rack, about to be repatriated just when he’s settling nicely.
Luckily, Pamela shimmies through at this point, whispers something into Edmundo’s ear. I sense her tongue explore his lobe, her hand carress his back. He shivers with delight, then drags himself to the door. Oswaldo makes a slender excuse to escape. My pacing unnerves him.
After five minutes, Little and Large return, scenting blood.
“It was deliberate. You disobeyed orders and just went off on your own mission.” The military metaphors are fine, but in terms of stalking, Stalker’s far ahead. During their absence, I set to studying the array of certificates and diplomas on Edmundo’s wall (summer course at the London School of Economics last year, that’s interesting – just when the Copcap recruitment ad appeared in the papers) and also happen to glance at a sheet of paper on the desk. $135,000 is a hell of an amount for one year’s budget of the health project and I still haven’t caught sight of the doctor.
“I shall be submitting a report on your behaviour to the Directorio meeting next Tuesday,” storms Large. “I expect you already know what my recommendations will be.”
“Yes,” snipes Little, “I can’t imagine what we were thinking when we engaged your services, such as they are.”


Chapter 13
I’m a Bolívar

I spentd a sulky Saturday weeding the garden, until Asunta makes her comment about not pulling up so many carrots. Sure enough, the evidence lies my feet, dozens of feathery leaves. Ah, that’s what baby carrots look like. When Asunta sees my anger, she switches from calling me joven to the respectful caballero – ‘horseman’, reference to the Spanish conquest, deference to me. Horseman, indeed! – of the apocalypse with that directorio meeting due soon.
Well, a condemned man deserves a break before his execution. So when Julio invites me to the football game, I accept. Spectator sport is the grand distraction of our age and I am suitably distraught.
Amnesia being a feasible option, once in town I head for the Israelis, hoping to find Tzipi alone, but I’d settle for a whisp of grass. Miracle; the lads have taken a jeepful to the salt plains of Uyuni. Inevitable; Tzipi’s a girlfriend is over, sharp and shrewd Naomi who doesn’t want to know me. Nothing for sale, says Tzipi, sorry, the boys have taken the supply, but we do have a little, try this. And then, Naomi’s scowl makes very clear, depart. OK, no hassle, I’m going to the match.
Forty thousand paceños and I, we’re here for el clásico, the game between the local giants, as in big fish/small pond. Bolívar, accent on the í, not the var, (that is ‘believer’) are eleven-time champions. Their rivals, The Strongest (I jest not), pronounced ‘dear-strong-air’, are nicknamed the Tigers. After the mauling I’ve received at the office, they won’t get my support, not even with a free safari thrown in.

Julio arranged to meet me at 2.30 by the flagpoles. Of course he’s late, but the excitement of the fans wound up for action is momentarily entertaining, though the dope is pressing on my eyes, blurring the crowd to a hypnotic swirl of gnats and midges.
Then I notice a brown sandstone idol, must be two or three thousand years old, marooned on the traffic roundabout opposite the stadium. What a spot for an ancient god to dwell, under continuous circling assault from the cars. Greater than human, its head and shoulders are shampooed in pigeon-shit, toxicity is crumbling its features. The monolith gazes blankly above and beyond the fans, their banners, whistles and rockets, their tame rivalries.
Julio appears an aeon and a half later, wearing a sky-blue scarf (light-blue, more accurately - the sky at this altitude has a deeper hue). “I’m not late,” he asserts, five minutes from kick-off. True, the rest of La Paz is also just arriving. Lengthy queues have formed at those few windows where tickets are on sale, leaving us at the mercy of the revendedores, whose livelihood is to buy early and re-sell to latecomers for a slight surcharge. Julio resents paying the extra, though it’s my treat and his fault.
The stadium disproves the argument that sport and politics don’t mix. Built in the ‘70s from unrepayable petrodollar loans, it’s an example of the Colonel’s unerring instinct for lavishing scant resources on popular schemes. Can buy me love. It’s el coronelito’s gift to his buddies in the cement and construction industries, is crude and minimal, the local architectural style. Row upon row of sweeping concrete, three tiers high. No thrills, no frills, no standing, yet no seats. The national soccer stadium
Julio makes for the south curve and, judging from the colours of the flags, into the tiger’s lair, an odd choice.
The stadium is filling fast
The teams emerge from the tunnels to ritual chanting, Bolivar looking delicate in their pale blue, the Strongest wearing a strip of black and yellow stripes, wasps at the picnic. Smoke bombs in team colours foul the terraces. I buy a paper Bolívar visor to protect my skull from the sun’s intensity. Despite the presence of hardcore estronguistas; doesn’t seem too dangerous, there are other sky-blues dotted among the yellow.
So much news for Julio, but instead of wasting breath on office babble, I tell him how impressed I’d been with the blanket of new seedlings in the Atipiris greenhouse.
“It’s not such a good sign, Jaime,” he responds. “The lettuces are all going to mature at the same time, and I’m sure that most will end up feeding the family pigs. They planted too many, too close”
“Can’t we transplant them?” I say, touching his tight, light clothing.
“Where?” He’s combing his black hair, fiercely. “There’s no room in the greenhouse.”
“Well, couldn’t the señoras take the plants home and grow them in their yards?”
“Claro, but they’ll need covering in plastic in case.....”
At this point something happens, so unlikely that I’d hesitate to put it in a novel.
“Meestair Estalkhair.” A thin hand grazes my right shoulder.
Approimately 39,873 spectators, and from that crush of humanity, to my right sits the prim bureaucrat from Immigration, the one with the air of a languid tango dancer. He’s barely recognizable in dark glasses and casual clothes, his moustache sandwiched between a low-slung cap and an ample scarf, both of which reveal his allegiance, yellow and black. What gives him away, however, is his grasp of the language - English broken here.
“Meestair Estalkhair, we are meeting again.” He doesn’t extend his hand to shake, so I nod and return to Julio. But you know how it is stoned, a negative presence throbs through the suburbs of the mind. And now I’ll need to chaperone Julio so he doesn’t talk radical within earshot of this official.
Attention, the game has begun.
The football has all the frenzy of a frisbee session on the vicarage lawn, it’s impossible to talk of atmosphere. The crowd responds sedately, the chanting never rising to a roar except at the moment of the goals. Still, Bolívar are awarded a penalty five minutes into the game, a leg somehow tripping itself, and take the lead. The tangocrat, who’s been enthusiastic, is crestfallen, which more than ever clinches my choice of team. I’m a Bolívar, I couldn’t leave ya, if I tried.
Never supported a champion before, goes against my principles. Not playing well, buy more players, use the winning brand-name to seduce fans in odd places, like all those Man United-shirted Malays, a malaise. But, here, both teams are so dreadful, I can kid myself there’s no harm done.
In the twenty-third minute, dainty play, passes slicing through the weakest of defences, 2-0 to Bolívar. My neighbour loses interest in the game and finally introduces himself.
“Waldo Ventura,” he says and offers his hand. “How is it going your time here?”
“What? OK,” Brief and firm, the way to maintain distance.
“And still you are working?”
The dope sugarcoats the scene, luring me into admitting that I do indeed continue in the Alto. He nods, asks how I’m enjoying the challenge. I lower my guard enough to confide a few of the problems. Remind me not to ingest substances before the next interrogation.
“Who is that guy?” Julio enquires at half-time while we’re below biting into spicy sausage rolls. Then he turns grey from the edges inwards.
“ The bitch!” Who? “Ana – never mind. Let’s go sit someplace else.”
“No, it would be suspicious. I can see this out.”
“You’re crazy. Desculpa, then, but I prefer to move.” Reluctantly, I let him go.
Strongest dominate the second-half, pull a goal back with a close header from a free-kick. They play hard and rough, living up to their tigerish nickname, and function well as a team, lots of fearful symmetry. Waldo chain-smokes American cigarettes; my pure tobacco fumes blowing into his face, discomfort him, I’m glad to say. Ha! Bolívar are hanging on.
This game is unreal and the placidity of the crowd worse. My last match in England, lower reaches of the league, Leyton Orient v. Brentford, Geordie and I escaped from a minor mob outside the ground, ducking under the bridge, then racing into the park. Or that top game, Arsenal v. Liverpool, when a half-brick came sailing past our heads. Here, it’s a family affair. Not to forget that
Nevertheless, fan means fanatic.Waldo, sweats and curses at my side as The Strongest throw away one chance after another, is not a child, even if he’s behaving like one. Pity the juniors at the office tomorrow; this man will make others suffer for his suffering. The game is slipping from his team. 2-1 to Bolívar. Bien.
Before the final whistle he turns, squinting against the sun and snaps; “I am wishing you for to learn me Inglis.”
“I’m not that sort of teacher.”
“I invite you like a friend, but you must to come and visit. Your permission in this country is illegal. I’m checking. You do nothing to correct it.”
He has crammed his yellow and black insignia tightly in a tiny sportsbag. The boyish spell, the sporting fantasy, is over. It’s a government official, that gold-plated ballpoint in use again, who’s writing his telephone number on a card. The address, Achumani, way down to the south of the city, among the élite.. He adds a rank to the name – Capitán Waldo Ventura.



Chapter 14
Rainshine

The directorio meeting must be Edmundo’s programming. Tuesday is an unlucky day in the Andes, possibly malevolent, certainly no time for business. Ground floor has been cleared of petitioners, and those foolish or needy enough to intrude are despatched to the outhouse, emphasis on ‘out’.
Members arrive in twos and threes, shaking the drizzle off their shawls and ponchos, the women unwrapping their hats from plastic-bags. In rainy weather, bowler hats are wrapped in plastic and worn thus. Greetings echo in the icy air.
I choose a free seat at the table that dominates the room (don’t ask me where the table’s stored when not in use). The temperature is close to zero, so steaming mugs of tea have been served. I sip at the welcome brew, alone among a strange crew.
Wrinkled rustic massaging his hands, mutters in Aymara; Don Eudoro of the flute-carvers. Two women in traditional dress sit cross-legged on the floor, one massive as an idol, her companion tiny and fragile, both chewing coca leaves, Lidia and Amalia. Another señora in re-stitched rags is waving a finger negatively at the handsome profile of Don Alberto, ex-miner, now maskmaker.
Scalding both hands on the metal mug, I feel uncomfortable, as if I’ve stolen someone’s place, though the gathering reps still smile and nod. A directorio session is, reportedly, a serious matter and I’m suddenly aware that staff attend by invitation only. Edgar strides in, glares at me but can’t deal with the problem while he’s feigning benevolence to a ruck of well-wishers.
I half-stand, but a hand pushes me firmly back down.
Elvira, hi, I mean buenos dias.
“First finish your tea,” she says and clinking mugs, winks, turns to the diminutive Doña Amalia of the gold and silver workers. Two serious ladies unfooled by Edgar’s entry. Keep them talking and perhaps I won’t be thrown out, yet.
How does all this work?
“Twelve groups in total,” explains Amalia, twirling her heavy gold ring.
Each has a representative? “Monthly meetings” Oh, I’ve missed three already. And you make decisions? “Of course, we are the maximum authority. “For example, I’m the Treasurer and keep the books” But real businesses have accountants, I don’t say.
At this moment, the 60-watt bulbs in the room stutter and fade. Somewhere, an electricity pylon, the Alto’s substitute for trees, has been hit by lightning. In the draining gloom, Ana enters bearing candles, apologizes, then leaves, proof that awe descends upon the Directorio in conclave.
But not for Edmundo, who has no intention of merging into the background. He flops into the chair at the top/bottom of the table, three candles illuminating his end to Faustino’s single stub.
For me, the central mystery is why the economists and sociologists who created Copcap should adhere to this masquerade of an association with rights of the membership, a written constitution, even an annual assembly of socios and this monthly caucus (oops - nearly wrote ‘circus’).
“We have a quorum and I now call this meeting to order.” The steady, thin voice is Faustino’s.
If it’s to display grass-root credentials to the funders, the facade is hardly necessary. Any number of governments, foundations, NGOs and busybodies of every description, seem desperate to throw away their cash, especially on educated and corrupt élites.
Talking of whom, Edmundo is humouring the board. “One moment, Mr. Chairman,” he intervenes. “I don’t think this young man has the right to be here.”
“Es muy probable, but let’s examine today’s agenda before any decision is taken. Then we can allocate a time for joven Jaime.” Faustino expresses his opinion with the firmness that marks leadership in all cultures.
The Secretary, a small woman in a cream blouse and brown baggy trousers, recites el orden del día. Various hands are raised. The nod goes to Don Alberto the maskmaker. “We need to shorten the list or it’ll take us till midnight.”
“La palabra,” meaning, permission from the chair. “All these points merit attention,” objects Lidia. “But I suggest we listen to last month’s minutes to remind ourselves of the business in hand.”
“Aprobado,” rules Faustino, releasing the Secretary to mumble through the minutes as if at prayer.
Here is no rabble; each speaker weighs procedure with the gravity of a law-lord. The idea that this court will judge my cause has me trembling beyond any reaction to the cold. Only Edmundo, anorak over suit for the occasion, appears to ignore the debate. Contempt is probably the deepest emotion in his life.
Eventually, the directorio decides to consider my impeachment later, much later, under the heading of ‘miscellaneous’. Wiser not to linger but retire gracefully before the bearded wonderboy has the chance to fast-track a motion of expulsion.
Outside, the cables sag beneath the downpour.
And now what? I might go home and catch Asunta eyeballing the morning rerun of her soap, “Amor Desafortunado”, the one where a maid dreams of marrying the son of the household only to discover that she’s his long-lost sister. I’d rather stand in the rain, thank you. And even if I do succeed in dislodging Asunta from the living-room, where can I relax there?
To the outhouse, where shapes huddle by candlelight. The crush of bodies has raised the temperature a degree. There’s laughter and chatter, a human warmth that’s missing from the meeting, acceptance too. I’m given a primitive scale, two metal pans fixed to the ends of a bar, and a pile of nylon bags to fill with soya flour. 5 kilos per socio, courtesy of the European Union who have generously dumped this genetically-altered muck on us..
A radio tuned to cumbia is the nuisance. Since the moment Ana demonstrated the intent within these songs, their insidious lyrics have hounded me. In this one, the male singer accuses his girl of being ‘hechizera, bandolera, mentirosa’, sorceress, bandit, liar. Message - trapped by your black magic, I’m under no obligations. You stole my freedom, I don’t believe a word you say. Appalling. Love at first slight.
Feet are tapping. Absurd that the roomful of women enjoy a song which insults them so? Either they’re immune or they simply don’t get it. When I request a change of music, someone obliges by switching to another cumbia station. Maybe the batteries will run down before the power supply returns.
No big deal; I’m pondering more vital matters. The authority of a directorio, functional despite 500 years of powerlessness. And on a personal level, what I’ll say when Edmundo, with his unerring hunter’s instinct, puts the question I can’t answer, at least not in front of these doughty board-members.
“Young man, just what made you decide to come to Bolivia?”

Rewind the spool to London. Squeak memory, as gingerly as a fieldmouse.
Our house, I’m preordained to dwell in oddity, is an elegant affair, built for suburban clerks, now East End slum property. Over the doorway, a plaque ‘1888’ commemorates one hundred and ten years plus of solitude. The rent is very reasonable but other tenants shun these streets. Forget the occasional rat. The problem lies beyond the back wall of the garden, where a derelict mansion looms.
Any sketch of our house must include this fragment of eighteenth century London. The Hackney Academy was once an exclusive school nestling among fields to the east of London. But over the years, an ascending scale of madness and repression has recast it as orphanage, lunatic asylum and, finally, the Salvation Army world HQ. Overrun by the city, it survives disintegrating and silent, except for the snarling guard-dogs and an eerie resonance of all those vanished inmates.
That empty building dominates our house, although we can see only one corniced wing. Some day they’ll film the Jane Austen version of Frankenstein there.
Now let me introduce you to our household. In fact, I’ll draw you a mural. That group of contorted stick-figures is what passes for family in modern Britain. The large, bearded man playing blues guitar is Geordie. In the ground floor studio, sculptor Sarah, welding torch poised, proves her mettle. I’m the skinny lad gazing across skeleton bushes of the back garden towards the holy orphanage-asylum. Joshua the cat can be found napping in the kitchen or stalking rats.
While Sarah’s absorbed in her work, we move to Leaside where despèrate teachers and bored teenagers complete the sketch. Some students aren’t yet asleep, so they’re still actively disrupting the class with comments and knives. For classroom windows, pencil in shards of broken glass. What a drawing on this scale can’t show is the rest of the UK population turning their backs on the debacle.
Nine months between the coastal London damp and the drenched heights of the Alto today, an entirely appropriate span for the gestation of this infantile adventure.
That particular Sunday, the rain descended, weighty and choking. Geordie was slumped despondent on a cushion. No music, no beat of a chisel disturbed the household.
“Would it help at all if I went away?“ I finally venture.
“What’s the point?” says my best friend. “The damage is done.”
“Even so, you might work it through.”
“I know her. She won’t.” Geordie, the prophet of thundering phrases, curt and cut. I feel terrible. “Then there’s Leo,” he adds.
By now, Friday’s edition of the ‘Guardian’ should be lining the bottom of Joshua’s litter-tray. Not that he’s an intellectual cat, but dead trees are dead trees, even the recycled, upmarket ones.
As luck or fate (or neither) would have it, that the ‘Guardian’ is on my desk, intact, open at the appointments page. More to amuse Geordie than in earnest, I search vacantly for vacancies.
We dismiss those involving war-zone refugees, Muslim gender awareness programmes, rape, epidemics, rehabiltation, landmines, famine, assorted disasters. Any place on earth where nothing too drastic is happening?
“That’s the point,” quips Geordie. “If you’re really serious about vanishing, aim for somewhere off the map.” His spirits are definitely rising. “Here’s one.”
Ah, Bolivia, whence news pours like light from a black hole.
I cut out the innocent-looking ad. No warning bells sound. It’s so believable and persuasive, we’re even tempted into mockery.
‘Some field experience required.’ We’ve fucked in fields, practised substance-abuse there. Field experience - tick. ‘Dynamic networker’, not really my best card but I could fake it, we’ll tick that, too. ‘Community policy implementation’ - I misread that as ‘policing’, the true focus of every teacher’s life. Knowledge of Spanish preferred - that is, optional, itself a pointer to this advertisement’s lack of credibility.
Relieved to be relating again to Geordie, I mug myself with the joke which, like a kidney-stone, will go on to acquire layers of consequence. But at that moment, we’re rampant.
Sarah in overalls, brisk and sober, punctures the euphoria: “If you’re so keen on running away, why not both go, leave me in peace, play your dirty games elsewhere.” But I’m the one left clutching the ticket. And sometimes it’s not a question of what you’re running from, so much as what you run into, sidestepping a bike to fall under the bus.

The summons to the Directorio comes just when the pile of bagged flour threatens to topple, that radio still jabbering songs of blame. “Poor Jaime,” my companions sigh. “Off you go. Buena suerte.”
I savour a final Astoria in the yard and wonder at the state of my nerves. Why should the judgement of this untutored, ragtag tribunal matter? Whatever the outcome, I can simply walk away, travel round the Bolivia I’ve denied myself, muleback along the salt trails and over the mountain passes. Then return home to.......?
Doesn’t bear thinking about.
And I do care! I want to discover what ordinary Bolivians think of me, if, that is, puppetmaster Eddie allows them to express their opinions. Sticks and stones, career blips and blots, but I would like to know. As a token of hope, for the first time today, the sun shines through a break in the cloud-mass. God winks (or yawns).
Inside, the fatigue is focused on one guttering candle in the centre of the table. Faustino, hand on forehead, waves a pencil, which I take as permission to sit. No-one responds to my greeting, so I shelter beside Lidia. Maybe her bulk can protect me against draughts and ill winds.
Prosecutor Edmundo’s charges are predictable, valid even and his oratory quite convinces me. If there were a rotten tomato to hand, I’d throw it at myself. Between nnuendo and dramatic pauses, the picture builds of a foreign layabout wasting the association’s limited resources to satisfy his need for travel. Unfair; apart from beer and transport (freely given), I haven’t cost Copcap a penny, but mud sticks.
Should I anticipate the question before he can pose it? Stand and confess. Yes, your honour, on that rainy, optionless London morning, I saw an advert in a reputable newspaper. Minimal requirements to work in a country about which I knew next-to-nothing. Bolivia was irresistible.
Then, unexpectedly, Doña Teofila of the Atipiris raises her hand.
“Tiene la palabra,” Faustino rules. The word is hers.
“All I want to say is that is that my group learnt a lot about ourselves from Jaime’s last visit and I’ve been instructed by the members to vote against any motion to dismiss him. He’s the first person in a long time to take us seriously.”
A chain-saw might cut the silence, a knife won’t. Don Alberto does.
“We at the maskmakers would also like to see him soon.”
Which is when Edmundo, without the benefit of Oswaldo’s presence, makes his mistake or makes his move, depending how you look on it. He sneers at them.
“With all due respect,” (meaning none) “I do feel that the speakers lack a sufficiently professional background to judge this situation,” and more in like vein until the air bristles and the vote is a formality. The directorio quickly approves a timetable for my visits to each group and assigns me Elvira as overseer.
As I’m receiving congratulations on this small victory, a red-faced Edmundo stomps out. Yet, though witness to my own triumph, I can’t tell you what I’ve really seen. Would the directorio have supported me without Edgar’s indiscretions? It’s possible he planned the charade with Faustino while I was off bagging soya. Because, in the long run, Edgar needs me to stay and serve his true interests.






Tuesday 17 July 2007

chapters 9 & 10

Ok, folks, assuming the plural for one optimistic moment, here are two more chapters. How do I know anyone reads this? I have no idea. I would love it if people read the book, but can they let me know when they've been? Hmmm...


Chapter 9
Holding Onto the Weak End

Sunday mornings find me alone, stranded on a bed, dream-wisps circling - usually school rumours, accusatory stares, that London scene. When the dawn-song of a lone bird reaches in, I have another half-hour’s sleep until the silence shatters.
Source of the onslaught is Padre Ignacio, local Catholic priest. In fact, not so local, native priests being thin on the ground even after 500 years of indoctrination Ignatz is a displaced German who’s encircled this part of the Alto with a dozen incongruous churches of assorted oddity, his unholy roman empire.
At 6.30 am, Our Lady of the Bleeding Heart, I believe it is, opens up full volume with a fuzzy recording of bells. Real bells I might accept; they suggest sweat and some human endeavour. But Mr. Sony’s second best sound-system comes on like a purgative and I’m up and cursing. Next tape, a lowing nun’s choir, is truly wretched. Then Ignatz grabs the mike and hits all the wrong notes. If Jesus hadn’t wept, I would.
Turn on the radio to drown out the racket, but at this hour the choice is weepy ballads or news in Aymara. The latter wins. It’s impossible to stay long in this bedroom looking out on the neighbours’ walls. Once down the stairs, I bow ironically to the furniture and race to the kitchen.
Doña Asunta has left some disgustingly sugary coffee. She departs early Sunday to visit her niece’s daughter and how I’d love her to take Saturday off too, but she doubts whether I’ll survive her absence. Shrewd servant plays neurotic granny and those weekends, when I should be relaxing, start on a low.
I’m obliged to sing since there’s no socket for the radio. The effort is rather exhausting. Even so, the curious flavour of modern church music still seeps in, the sound of silence from Paul Simon and Bob Dylan blowing in the wind, Jewish ‘60s folk-songs co-opted for the mass. I am clearly not alone in my irony.
Inside or out it’s the same difference, and the noise-count is up. A rival evangelist preacher has joined in the din. None of your Mary-meek-and-mild, these types are fierce, it’s get saved or get lost, waging the war on Satan, especially against that idolotrous priest. Mutual rantings boom around the buildings. I’m obliged to consider wire-cutters and dynamite.
Stumbling out to check. Yes, even the stones and weeds are wincing.
And then, since excess is never enough, the cross-currents of harrassment merge. Overhead a jet, in the street a pack of dogs snarling like a parliamentary quorum, a knock on the door from yet another bunch of believers, the jovial witlesses, who want me on their bus, urgently, before the world ends. I’ve discovered how to return their serve - by offering them whisky and cigarettes. They dissolve, I retreat.
To the bedroom of last refuge which, despite its damaged view, at least provides the company of a spider, my gymnast of yellowing walls. This particular Sunday I have mail, opened but not digested. The one from Sarah ends with best wishes, that from Geordie with love - what a couple they are. I force the tide of noise to recede.
In large and urgent handwriting, Geordie’s swears he’ll leave Leaside before being dismissed. One more confrontation, be it over his contentious conduct, the content of classes, or for fomenting discontent, just one more and I’ll quit, he proclaims. Geordie, the only teacher to ignite a few students with loyalty and enthusiasm, way off the richter scale compared to the rest. My cheers send the spider scurrying. He says he’s coming out to Bolivia, and, hey, what verve he’d bring. Sarah will never permit it.
I pale in comparison. Geordie doesn’t stand subtle insults, can’t be condescended into smiling back. He’d storm into that upper sanctuary of Edgar’s and .... and ..... be back on the plane to Heathrow within the week, wouldn’t he?
Sarah writes her 2-ton laser clock will be installed at Preston railway station next month amid outpourings of gratitude and joy from the northern travelling public. What I’d give for an hour in a corner of her studio now, admiring the white-hot creativity, her wielding of the welding gear.
Two separate letters. Neither bothers to mention whether they are still together, or even on speaking terms. No word on Leo, either.
I risk venturing outside, afield (or whatever one terms this patio full of rubble). Amazingly, the noise has subsided somewhat. A tenuous calm like radioactive fallout has descended. A yellow-winged blackbird perches on Asunta’s pick. It hops onto the wall, giving one pure burst of song which I’ll take as a signal to start gardening. Mark a patch, four paces by five, among the weeds.
The earth may be life-giving (Joanne’s mantra, not mine), but I doubt she’s dug ground as hard as this, fit only to raise blisters. Turn and turn, inch by inch. You’d be proud of my efforts, Mum, but I’m not doing this for you. Julio’s coming soon to check my progress. Gardening is so obsessive; head down, crust broken, stones in one pile, weeds to the other, earthworms rehoused. Dig it.
I’ve never comprehended why planetary life should depend on all those burrowing beetles, worms, and micro-organisms,. But beneath the surface a life-force does pulse. I’m investigating, stretched out prone, when Julio palmslaps the metal street-door open. He’s shouldering a bag of manure.
“Good, that’s the style. Take a long suck on Pachamama’s breast.” I get to my feet, embarrassed. “And you’ve made fine start on the digging. But look, there’s no need to step on the soil you’ve just turned.” True, instead of working back from the hard-pan edge, silly Jim has retrodden all his best work. Dumb, like dropping tea-leaves into the cup.
“What’s the Pachamama?”
“Earth Mother, deserving of respect at all times. And here’s an offering that will give her strength to make the plants grow,” Julio grins, one hand gracefully on hip, the other displaying the goods like a salesman. A rich odour of deep woodland escapes from the sack. “This is great stuff,” he states, emptying the bag and spreading the pile with a sideways sweep of the pick. “From my compost pile” - no shit.
As we work, I learn that it’s each gardener to the acreage of his mind, concentration replacing talk. The fall of pick and shovel conjures up a silence where dog-pack battles, children’s cries, the drunken smashing of beer-bottles, can’t intrude.
Stealing glances at Julio, wondering if he feels my lust. A delicate moment is approaching when I’m going to overstep the boundary into unknown territory and be damned. Quick, retire to the kitchen and prepare lunch, bustle among the vegetables, work off that desire.The soup bubbles. So do I.
Fortunately or not, Julio blunders into a conversation that will break the mounting spell. “Do you have a girlfriend, Jaime?”
Sarah’s letter resonates, allowing a guarded reply: “Yes, maybe.”
“Will you be marrying her?”
“And if she’s already married?” I ask this to test Julio, but the question is pertinent. How lawful was that ceremony at the Glastonbury Fayre, conducted by an itinerant tarot-teller, minister and congregation all tripping? How solvent is Sarah and Geordie’s union after my own loving intrusion?
“Your affairs are really complicated, Jaime,” Julio manages “Which leaves you free, of course,” my heart leaps, “to find a wife here, doesn’t it?” If looks could wither, he should be a shrivelled frond by now, but Julio doesn’t notice. “Sabes, Ana could be convinced with a bit of effort.” This conversation is going off the rails. Back to work.
One last chance of redemption. “And yourself, Julio – anyone in your life?”
“I can’t consider marriage until I’m 30 and a working professional.”
“But, have you met her yet?” No response.
We move into the street to plant seven saplings, each in a lovingly prepared hole, protected, necessarily, by cages of fencing-wire. I imagine a relationship with Julio passing through similar stages; the embedding, the flowering, responsibilities, growth tethered and caged in. My fantasy didstorts tino depressing prospect.
Back inside, tilling the land, another knock on the door.
“Quién es?” Who?
“Yo.” Me
That’s how they always answer. It’s infuriating. I’m tempted to continue the exchange, “And who’s me?” but then they might reply, “You.” And I’d drown in the existential muddle.
Ana enters, holding a cake wrapped in white paper. She does not seem pleased to see Julio, so maybe he’s right, the girl does have designs.
“Shall I put the kettle on?”
“No,” she says, “I’ll help you finish the digging.”
At which moment, a neighbour turns his radio to the cumbia station and Ana explodes into righteous anger. “Qué terrible!” Well, dull maybe, reggae without spring, but then this world is full of boring music.
“The worst part is the lyrics, totally indefensible,” Ana asserts. “Listen to what he’s singing. ‘Me has engañado, me has traicionado: ’ - self-pity and blame. All the songs are like that.” Yes, the singer is certainly guilt-shifting. ‘You tricked me, you betrayed me, it’s your fault that I can never love again.’
Julio’s having none of it. “ You read too much into the words, Ana.”
“Ay dios, qué machismo. What about this one, Julio?”
A poignant love song: ‘Chica, don’t you ever forget you’re my private property’, yeah, clearly IMF sponsored. But it’s the final doom-laden ditty, set to a jaunty beat, ‘I’m going to take poison so as to forget you’ that decides me. “Truly shocking,” I have to admit.
And once registered, cumbias become the curse of my life. I hear them on every bus, in markets, restaurants, on the street, in my dreams; there’s no escape from the background pollution,– hummable tunes, awful lyrics. Mental static, makes me puke.
Yet Julio keeps on arguing till Ana walks out in disgust.
Five minutes later Julio himself goes, skinning me for ten dollars in local currency, knowing that I won’t refuse, not with the generous income I’m presumed to receive (and do, including perks he can’t imagine). But he hasn’t exhausted his aggravations. At the door, Julio hints that my immense influence at the embassy might obtain him a scholarship, then taunts me over the luxury of my surroundings. Does he intuit how much I’m at his mercy?
I dig on till sunset, battering the sods, risking sunburn, wondering if this patch of garden is merely a plot. Blisters burst, and worse, the neighbour stays tuned to his infernal station, forcing me to turn up my own radio beyond distortion, like slapping whitewash over thick black paint.
By early evening, when Ignatz takes to the microphone again, crooning insistently off-key, the day’s toil has conferred immunity on me. Birds peck the freshly turned earth, the sun’s late rays turn the adobe walls golden, I experience sound as silence.



Chapter 10
Breakthrough : Thin Ice

The rhythms of the Alto are steady, I’ll admit they’re life-sustaining, but when the diet gets monotonous and the pace too measured then I have to abandon the plain. Only the city of La Paz can provide contours.
I’ve given up on the minibuses, can’t take the noise. They all use voceadores, voicers (an apt name), who shout prices and destinations, non-stop. One of those in your ear-drum for three-quarters of an hour is worse than a throng of auctioneers selling a barnful of bellowing bulls.
No, the best ride is el Especial, a Scandinavian superbus with suspension smooth enough to permit reading or writing. Dwarfing the other vehicles on the road, they’re totally incongruous in a transport system which holds itself together on welding, wire and hope. One has to wonder how such buses reached land-locked Bolivia - on a raft, in pieces, by brown paper parcel?
This one’s green and white and it delivers us, mid-morning, to the Alonso de Mendoza Square, where a statue of the Spaniard, complete with sword and charter, commemorates the founding of the city on this spot in 1548. Like so much history, a pack of small-scale lies. Here’s a more accurate version of the tale.
Alonso led a pack of feuding conquistadores, all canny survivors, distrusting and untrustworthy. Alonso is the enforcer. He has orders from the viceroy to start a city which will protect the silver en route from the fabulous new mine of Potosí. And, incidentally, to distract these seasoned cut-throats with civic responsibilities and property. Unfortunately, the orders are very specific; the city of Our Lady of Peace must be sited at Laja.
Which made sense in the cloisters of the Inquisition in Lima, but when Alonso and his band reach Laja they find a few windswept hovels at a crossroads on the great plain. Since he can’t disobey the clear instructions, Alonso goes through the motions, and three days later conveniently absents himself, letting the others move the show to the gold-mining centre of Chukiago, today’s La Paz.
The newly founded city, plus charter, banner and Indian slaves, rouses itself and marches a final fifteen miles to the abrupt edge of the plain, to a vast natural amphitheatre spreading south, hey - gold and warmth. The city of peace, site of untruths, intrigues and bickering ever since.
Funny thing; those Spaniards were fantastically impervious to discomfort. They could ride for days and then fight a skirmish or two before early-morning mass, without breaking sweat. Why, then, did they quit the altiplano? Were they oppressed by the scale of its apparent emptiness? Yes, I suspect, as Alonso and his gang gazed down from the Ceja, they rejoiced to find once again limits to the horizon.
As do I.
So what does one seek in an indifferent city – company, allure, thrills? My few attempts at discovering La Paz night-life have failed. Sober on expensive beer, I watch the locals form mutual admiration societies, the travellers discuss routes and e-mail facilities. There’s no entry, I’ve stopped trying.
Today I’ll settle for a plate of reasonable food and letter or two from home. Then up to the throbbing Buenos Aires on a visit to Mario. He’s been leaving urgent messages with Ana. Weird really, I’ve had the impression he despises me.

These are the fruits of my site-seeing.
Alonso’s square, a concrete void contained by iron railings. When will the paceños learn? A park must give the illusion of losing the city for a while. These few trees do not a park make.
A block further on, the famous San Francisco church, but one look inside is enough. Here the spirit sinks under such a weight of precious metal. Priests drone their heavy Mass. The Spaniards never realised that gold represented sunlight and vitality to the Incans. Heavy, away, quick.
The climb up to the witchcraft market is fairly steep, resulting in blurred vision and a clamping headache. Not Everest, but cigarettes do tell in altitude. With my final reserves of breath, I phone Mario from a street-kiosk. Later, he says.
Near the entrance to labyrinth of markets there’s a scrawled sign, ‘Felafel today’ which hauls me in. The desire for a simple chickpea meal after weeks of greasy meat leads me up the painted wooden staircase. A long room dominated by smoke and hubbub. Tacky varnished tables, a view of other windows staring back from across the street. The felafel is flavourless gum - as a restaurant El Lobo earns no stars. But I’ve stumbled onto a scene, the watering-hole for Israeli travellers.
Scribbled notes in Hebrew fill the bulletin board where two tatter-jeaned lads, guidebooks out, discuss, that’s too mild, debate. Good, these people might be sufficiently crazy to talk to me. Among the heaped backpacks, a willowy yet robust, statuesque blonde smiles at me from across the tables. Is this ever my lucky day?
This last month, I reflect, has reinforced my natural caution. Rounds of negotiations - for credibility at the office, for acceptance in the groups, for living space with Doña Asunta, I’ve been handling delicate crockery. Whereas, the atmosphere of license is palpable in the restaurant; there’s an air of reckless resolve. The Israelis all of one age and nothing is going to stand in their way. Such bulls in a china shop are most alluring. Allure; I leave myself open and in rush the ghouls. In fact the girl’s limbering this way right now - with the poise of a huntress.
Tzipi doesn’t make the mistake of addressing me in Hebrew. You’re not a tourist, are you? Me neither. Though why she, of all the Israelis present, isn’t in transit, fails to cross my mind.
That lazy drawl she affects, scoffing at every feature of local life, the people, the food, the weather, the hygiene, the transport and accomodation, the awful folk-dancing, the religion, the politics. After my timid respectfulness, I do need to hear someone get rude about Bolivians. It’s a bravura performance, the metal glint of her eyes warning, her husky voice dissolving doubts.
The local grass is wonderful, she assures me most earnestly, would you like to try some? She has me sussed. Welcome to my web-site, gloats the spider.
What are we waiting for?
“You’re talking to the ex-commander of a military unit,” she says, as I struggle to keep up with her strides. “And I enjoyed every moment of the experience.” The day takes on a surreal golden glaze.
On reaching her apartment sitated behind the state university, images of bedding an army lieutenant crumple like a used condom. The front door opens to her signal and, four floors up, I’m presented to the room-mates, Israelis I presume, one dark, sturdy and knowing, the other squat, lizard-eyed. The apartment stinks of sweat and action, of maps, radios, tools, dirty clothes thrown on muddy boots.
The lads run an adventure tour business, for their compatriots exclusively, ferrying them in jeeps to the jungle or across the plains to the salt-flats. Demand is constant, the accent on adventure. Logical conclusion to the three-year army stint, Tzipi explains. After guarding a narrow strip of history, the reward is to be loosed on the unimaginable vastnessses of South America.
“You British?” asks Yod, the lean, dark one. “OK, I forgive you. ” He sprawls on an orange sofa which has seen better days and starts to spin his yarns. “Man, we just had such a time in Oruro. Some traffic cop stopped us. Didn’t have them any documents to show him.” Huge joke, another escapade notched up. “In jail for two days when we started arguing.”
“Took you long enough to get the papers to us, Tzipi,” complains the reptile, obviously unused to living on the wrong side of the Gaza checkpoint.
“Never mind,” laughs Yod. “Got on great with the prisoners, they loved us. Here, look at these photos we took inside - wouldn’t have missed it for anything.”
Glancing out of the window, I see a wall coated in graffiti; coronelito asesino ladron -. viva el Che On the pavement, a dead dog’s head pokes out of a black plastic bag.
“Wanna smoke a joint, British?”
Oh indeed, ever since the last one, which Geordie rolled with style and gusto that London morning only hours before the flight.
From the rubble-strewn floor Yod produces a dented biscuit tin, pushes the goods towards me and invites me to do the honours. The first whiff of resin has me salivating. (Does that ring a bell, Mr. Pavlov?)
Lift-off. Fuck, this stuff is as strong as fuck.
In no time (where’d it go?) the providers of the bud are best buddies and I’m blabbing away over a mug of coffee about my life and works, cheerfully scribbling down the Copcap number. The girl insists on seeing me again soon. I consider cancelling the visit to Mario, but it’s already in motion.
“Can I score $10 worth?”
Yod sticks his hand in the tin, pulls out a generous fistful of the wondrous weed. Tzipi’s forthright kiss promises nothing. And Carlos, who’s not really Israeli, he’s from Havana, just stares and blinks. Israelis and Cubans hanging out together should resonate oddly, but I’m befuddled.
The smoke has cracked the city into a thousand tumbling views, each self-contained, each part of the distended whole. I pass the San Pedro jail, my future home, and even examine the patterns on the bullet-riddled fortress walls.
Riddles.


“Jaime, Jaime. You think I’m so blind that I don’t notice you’ve stopped listening?”
This room is a shrine to history; the posters, the placards, the photos, stare down at me in derision. A metal alarm clock ticks like a factory-hand with a quota to fulfil.
“Very sorry.” But I’m stoned. “Could you repeat what you were saying?”
“No, nothing repeats within the dialectic,” which for an old campaigner like Mario counts as a joke.
“Aren’t you ashamed of your life here, Jaime?”
Well, actually, since he mentions it, I’m having quite a good time. No school-inspectors, knitting needles instead of knives, a few false smiles (par for the course), rhythm. Each evening I return to my sweet house from hell and in the morning a queue awaits me at the office. A little, brittle life, protected by my outsider status. Why is Mario probing for weaknesses?
His miner’s wheeze broadens into a cough, he spits into a grey handerkerchief. The pipe in his hand trembles with frustration; a lifelong struggle come to this, flailing in the neo-liberal quagmire.
“You know,” he continues, “in ’52 we took the haciendas away from the landlords and redistributed the land to those who really worked it. We kicked out the mine-owners, created a free educational system open to all.....” One moment, sorry to interrupt, comrade, but, first time we met, you told me ’52 had been a revolution in name only, remember.
“What you lack is a purpose,” he splutters and the pipe, pointed at my heart, skewers any excuses before they’re made.
“I have to make a call.” He shuffles out to the communal house-phone, slamming the door. I should have waited to smoke that joint the Israelis gave me. Words won’t come, the room folds around itself.
Mario returns. “He’s arriving in five minutes.”
“Who’s that, Mario.”
“El compañero. You need commitment in your life, and my friend is a very committed person.”
Rigoberto stalks in without knocking, way too tall for a Bolivian. He stoops to embrace Mario but after studying me carefully, decides a handshake will suffice.
First we chew on coca, seated around the scarred, unsteady table, Rigoberto insists. I concentrate on the sacrament, a leaf at a time, no more stuffing wads in my gob. Rigoberto accepts a cigarette, Mario stays with the pipe, it’s an extension of his face.
“Bien,” starts Rigoberto formally, his hands resting on his thighs, “I hear that you’re interested in history.
“He knows a lot about Alonso de Mendoza,” Mario jibes. I can’t see what’s so funny.
“Listen, señor profesor de historia, you want to learn about the present day, the story of our glorious president?” And Rigoberto lays down this barely credible tale.
How, in the early ‘70s, a pint-sized colonel of German descent is recalled from his job as military attaché in Washington to lead a coup. He’s summoned by the top families of Santa Cruz, cowboy city, sugar-cane and cows. Our hero takes the prize and sets his presidential chair against the corrosive tide of communism, like a landlocked Canute. His infamous comment - sniff me out those communists, bring them to me and I’ll kill them myself, no hay problema.
So what price did the backers demand or is it just coincidence that the first cocaine trading organizes around the Santa Cruz families? Nothing ever quite touches the colonel (self-promoted to general), except for the son-in-law caught trafficking in Montreal, a cousin and nephew under suspicion in Miami, oh, and his country estate found piled high with coke, light aircraft ready to go. But that was a case of the shady elements using the property without permission. Our man stays sneaky squeaky clean.
It takes the better part of the decade to loosen his grip on power, a decade of death, torture and exile. From Argentina, Chile, through Bolivia, Paraguay, up into Brazil, the military dictatorss embrace on instructions from their masters in the north, swapping information and victims. They arrange coded bank accounts to handle the booty and, of course, attend Massin the cathedral regularly. Yes, it takes a hunger strike by the women of the mines, spreading to a nationwide standoff and finally, after seven long years, the little weasel is ousted.
There’s a failed attempt to impose a puppet successor in rigged elections, but the game should be over. Another petty tyrant retreats into exile. But no, this one has the gall to recreate himself as a born-again democrat, fabricates a political party, ADN, which clearly does not stand for All Damn Nazis, despite the party colours, red, white and black Nuremberg banners. Almost won in ’85, ’89 in coalition with a forgetful opponent, near as dammit in ’93, and ’97 it’s his turn in the game of musical chairs that passes for politics here.
Why do the voters, all 22% of them this time, support him? Well, in the ‘70s, as long as you wore blinkers and a gag, kept a clean-nose, watched out for plain-clothes, the dictatorship had been a pretty damned fine time, really. Those money-spinning projects financed by the foreign debt, such as the freeway and the national football stadium, had a lovely way of oozing cash right down along the line. We are eternally grateful mi coronel and, while you’re at it, could you please bring on the good times again?
“I don’t understand why you’re telling me this,” I parry, distinctly de-stoned. “We live through moments of collective amnesia,” replies Rigoberto, rising lankily, soaring like a condor over me. “We’ll meet again in my community.”
And later, cradling a bedtime joint, I’m still wondering which is potentially more hazardous for a young volunteer’s health; a bunch of excitable jungle-tour operators or that tall, rural educator who’s merely offered to show me the real countryside.